Prague is a city
of alchemy and magic, of history and intrigues, and, as former resident Marlet Le Roux reveals, it sustains body
and soul with hearty fare and free-flowing drink
Prague
City
1. Beefing up
Flanked by exquisite Romanesque, Baroque
and Gothic architecture, the cobbled Old Town Square dates back to the 12th
century when it was the central marketplace of Prague. Today, it is the
undisputed heart of the city and, since there’s no shortage of historical sights
to see, is peppered with a miscellany of pavement cafés and bars from which
thirsty, foot-weary folk can watch the world go by. Situated on Celetna Street.
U Pavouka (www.krcmaupavouka.cz) is the perfect spot to take a load off and
refuel with a hearty plate of svicková na smetané, a traditional rib-sticking
Czech dish comprising roast tenderloin of beef served with a thick vegetable
gravy, bread dumplings and cranberry sauce.
The
Old Town Square
2. Whale of a time
Leading up to the imposing National Museum
is Wenceslav Square, a wide avenue where Czechs famously rattled their keys in
victory at the culmination of the Velvet Revolution in 1989. There are
beautiful examples of Art Nouveau architecture to be found here, including the
Grand Hotel Evropa (www.evropahotel.cz) —just the place to enjoy a strong
coffee with a slice of cream-topped chocolate cake. Behind the museum, In
winding Opatovicka Street, you’ll find one of Prague’s most famous bars,
Velryba (www.kavarnavelryba.cz) — or The Whale — which is a beloved haunt of
artists for its pocket-friendly pub grub and pints. Order a platter of
nakiadany hermelin (Camembert marinated in oil with garlic, onion, peppers and
spices) and wash it down with a refreshing bottle of local Zatec beer before
heading downstairs for a peek at the contemporary art in the cellar gallery.
Leading
up to the imposing National Museum is Wenceslav Square, a wide avenue where
Czechs famously rattled their keys in victory at the culmination of the Velvet
Revolution in 1989.
3. The whole hog
The steeply spired St Vitus Cathedral and
majestic Prague Castle stand sentinel on a hilltop over the city. The castle —
the biggest in the world — was founded in 880 and today houses the offices of
the Czech president. Be sure to witness the changing of the guards for your
daily fix of pomp and ceremony. Once you’ve taken the prerequisite amount of
happy snaps and worked up a sufficient appetite, wander down the hill to U
Prašného Mostu street, and pay a visit to Lvi Dvûr (www.lvidvur.cz), a menagerie
for lions, tigers and bears until the mid-18th century and now a modern,
country-style eatery specialising in traditional Czech fare. Try the house
specialty: spit-roasted suckling pig served with a spicy white-wine sauce,
fried potato crisps and lettuce salad.
St
Vitus Cathedral and majestic Prague Castle stand sentinel on a hilltop over the
city - the biggest castle in the world
4. Rock the boat
Connecting the old town with Malà Strana
(the lesser Town”), Charles Bridge crosses the Vitava River and is a popular
stomping ground for artists and musicians peddling their trade to tourists.
There is a veritable fleet of cruise boats, all vying for one’s attention.
Climb aboard and view the bridge from a different angle while tucking into a
complimentary buffet meal and sipping a glass of local Moravian wine. If you
don’t mind giving your arms a workout, you could also hire a rowboat and paddle
among the swans while watching the sunset behind the ancient rooftops.
Vitava
River
5. Wandering jew
Arguably the most magical part of Prague,
the Old Jewish Town certainly warrants setting aside the better part of a day.
Leisurely amble the maze of narrow streets, stopping now and then to buy a
souvenir or to refuel on snacks such as cinnamon-sugar dusted trdlo (doughnuts)
or sýr5ma2ený(crumbed deep-fried Edam served with a dollop of tartare sauce).
Highlights on your meanderings will include the Jewish Cemetery, which dates
back to the 15th century and contains 12 000 gravestones, piled twelve layers
high, as well as the Synagogue and the Town Hall.
Highlights
on your meanderings will include the Jewish Cemetery, which dates back to the
15th century and contains 12 000 gravestone
