A Day in the Hutongs
Morning
Take the subway to Yonghe Gong for an early morning – and hopefully crowd-beating – visit to the Lama Temple. On leaving, cross over the main road and pass under the pailou (gate) at the entrance to Guozijian Jie for the Confucius Temple. Afterwards, take a break at the lovely
Confucius Teahouse
over the road. At the western end
of Guozijian Jie turn left onto Anding Men Nei Dajie, a wide,
shop-filled avenue and follow it south across Jiaodaokuo Dong Dajie and
take the first right into Ju’er Hutong, one of the most vibrant of the city’s old alleys. Take the first left onto Nan Luogu Xiang, where at No. 108 you will find the charming
Pass By Bar
, which has a small courtyard that makes for an excellent lunchspot.
Afternoon
On leaving the Pass By, head west along Mao’er Hutong until you reach main Di’an Men Wai Dajie, where you turn right and head up the street for the splendid Drum and Bell Towers.
Climb the towers to pick out the route you’ve just taken. Retrace your
steps back down Di’an Men Wai Dajie taking the very first right, a tiny
opening (usually marked by waiting taxis) leading into bustling Yandai Xie Jie. At the end of this crooked alley is the Silver Ingot Bridge; cross and bear left for Lotus Lane. You can stop here for coffee or head round the southern tip of the lake to
Han Cang
for a terrific meal of Hakka cuisine.
Bars and Teahouses
Bed Tapas & Bar
A short walk north of the Drum and Bell Towers, Bed makes the absolute most of its old courtyard house setting .
Huxley’s
The house motto is “Shut up and drink.” Compliance is encouraged with cheap beer and cut-price cocktails.
16 Yandai Xie Jie
6402 7825
Lotus Bar
Another
fine Yandai Xie Jie bar, this one squeezed into a narrow, two-story
house with a compact, boho interior and roof terrace.
29 Yandai Xie Jie
6407 7857
Drum & Bell
A modest bar in the shadow of antiquity offering refreshment and a gentle respite from sightseeing .
41 Zhong Lou Wan Hutong
8403 3600
Drum & Bell
Guan Tang
Cozy bar with a tranquil atmosphere, although with cocktails at just ¥30 things often don’t stay that tranquil for long.
No Name Bar
The perfect lakeside drinking den. Expect stiff competition from the house cat for the best seats .
3 Qianhai Dongyan
6401 8541
Pass By Bar
It may be book-filled but the atmosphere is anything but hushed at this lending library-cum-café/bar .
108 Nan Luogu Xiang
8403 8004
Pass By Bar
East Shore Live Jazz Café
Opened
by legendary jazzman Liu Yuan. Climb steep wooden stairs to four walls
of floor-to-ceiling windows and a roof terrace, plus live music.
2 Qianhai Nanyan Lu
8403 2131
Xin Bar
This
little gem has colorful Yunnan decorations, leafy foliage, and a roof
terrace overlooking the surrounding hutongs. As well as cheap beer there
are ten types of tea.
152 Jiu Gulou Dajie
6400 7571
Fu Family Teahouse
Modeled after a Qing-era home, this teahouse is filled with antique furniture and often has live Chinese music.
