Play word association with ‘Swaziland’ and
the first two words that spring to mind are probably `tiny' and `king'. That's
if anything springs to mind at all, given how little we tend to hear about this
southern African nation. Mike Unwin, author of the forthcoming Bradt guide to
Swaziland, sorts through the cliches to reveal a gem for the African traveller.
First, the size thing. Yes, Swaziland is
small: at 17,364 square kilometres, it is Africa's second smallest country
after The Gambia, and dwarfed by neighbouring South Africa and Mozambique. But
once you're inside, what seemed mere postage-stamp on the map unfolds into the
panoramic, with wildernesses where you can hike for days and not meet another
soul. And the dramatic topography - cool western highlands falling abruptly
away to hot eastern lowlands - means not only spectacular scenery, but also a
rich ecological diversity in a very small area
High
Commission of Swaziland
Big game-wise, admittedly, Swaziland's
parks cannot compete with the likes of the Kruger (just to the north). But an
impressive conservation programme has returned many species to their former
habitat, including both black and white rhino. Meanwhile numerous smaller
reserves harbour more elusive quarry, from aardwolf to Narina Trogon that is
often overlooked elsewhere.
And then there's the King. Yes, Swaziland
is an absolute monarchy - under the reign of Mswati III, whose numerous wives
and lavish lifestyle make for some unflattering headlines. To some he is an
anachronism, holding back democracy in a nation hungry for change; to others he
is the glue that binds together a unique cultural heritage. Either way, there's
certainly no ignoring this culture, with national ceremonies such as the
Umhlanga (reed dance) that are unbeatable for sheer spectacle anywhere in
Africa.
Swaziland
is an absolute monarchy - under the reign of Mswati III, whose numerous wives
and lavish lifestyle make for some unflattering headlines
Whatever its politics, Swaziland is Africa
in a nutshell: from the wildlife and scenery to the history and culture. And
the nation's Liliputian dimensions, combined with its good tourist
infrastructure and excellent road network, means that all these attractions
come laid on the visitor's plate.
Essential
Africa … Swaziland
Sibebe Rock
The world's largest granite dome bursts up
through the green hills just 8km outside Mbabane. Steep trails wind up the bare
rock face to a wonderland of cliffs and boulders on top. The views are
breathtaking, with abundant wild flowers and picturesque rural homesteads.
Access is via a community-run project in Pine Valley. A great day's excursion -
but definitely one to avoid in a downpour or electrical storm
Sibebe
Rock
Ngwenya glass factory and mine
Ngwenya gets its name from a crocodile-shaped
mountain along Swaziland's western border. The Ngwenya mine, which lies inside
Malolotja Nature Reserve, is arguably the oldest in the world, dated to 43,000
years ago, when people of the Middle Stone Age extracted its sparkling
Specularite to use in traditional ceremonies. At the nearby glass factory you
can watch glass blowers at the furnace shaping their miraculous creations from
recycled bottles. It forms the centre piece of a complex of local handicraft
stalls.
Ezutwini Valley
Starting just below Mbabane and extending
some 10km east beneath rugged escarpment walls along the road to Manzini, this
'valley of heaven' is Swaziland's tourist hub. Here you'll find hotels,
restaurants, backpacker lodges, handicraft markets, a thermal spa, golf course,
casino and riding stables. At the far end is Mantenga, where you can haggle for
carvings and candles at the craft centre, or catch a high-kicking sibhaca dance
at the cultural village. Ezulwini makes the ideal base for a longer stay in Swaziland
or – for visitors in transit - conveniently ticks off many key attractions.
Ezutwini
Valley
