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Paris - Around Town : Montmartre and Pigalle (part 2) - Places to Escape the Crowds

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A Day in Montmartre

Morning

As with all the city’s busy attractions, the sooner you get to Sacré-Coeur the more you will have it to yourself – it opens at 8am. Later in the morning, enjoy the bustle of Montmartre with tourists having their portraits painted by the area’s street artists in the place du Tertre. There are plenty of places to choose for a coffee, but the one most of the artists frequent is the Clairon des Chasseurs (

3 pl du Tertre
01 42 62 40 08).

For art of a more surreal kind, pay a visit to the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí . Head down rue des Saules to continue the artistic theme with lunch at La Maison Rose (

2 rue de l’Abreuvoir
01 42 57 66 75). Utrillo once painted this pretty pink restaurant.
Afternoon

After lunch, the Musée de Montmartre is nearby, as are the Montmartre Vineyards, and the little Cimetière St-Vincent where you will find Maurice Utrillo’s grave.

Head back up to rue Lepic to see the Moulin de la Galette before heading towards the boulevard de Clichy. Here you will see the sleazy side of Pigalle life, although the Musée de l’Erotisme is a more tasteful interpretation.

To the east is a great bar for an apéritif, La Fourmi (

74 rue des Martyrs
01 42 64 70 35). Then end the day with a show at the world-famous Moulin Rouge cabaret.

Artists who Lived in Montmartre

  1. Pablo Picasso

    Picasso (1881–1973) painted Les Demoiselles d’Avignon in 1907 while living at the Bateau-Lavoir. It is regarded as the painting which inspired the Cubism movement, which he launched with fellow residents Georges Braque and Juan Gris.

  2. Salvador Dalí

    The Catalan painter (1904– 89) came to Paris in 1929 and held his first Surrealist exhibition that year. He kept a studio in Montmartre, and his work is now celebrated in the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalì.

    Dalì sculpture
  3. Vincent Van Gogh

    The Dutch genius (1853–90) lived for a time on the third floor of 54 rue Lepic. Many of his early paintings were inspired by the Moulin de la Galette windmill.

  4. Pierre-Auguste Renoir

    Renoir (1841–1919) is another artist who found inspiration in the Moulin de la Galette, when he lived at 12 rue Cortot. For a time he laid tables at Au Lapin Agile.

  5. Edouard Manet

    Manet (1832–83) frequented Montmartre’s artist haunts and scandalized the art world with his paintings of nudes, including the famous Olympia .

  6. Maurice Utrillo

    Utrillo (1883–1955) often painted the Auberge de la Bonne-Franquette, an atmospheric depiction of old Montmartre. His mother was the artist Suzanne Valadon and they both lived at 12 rue Cortot, now the Musée de Montmartre.

  7. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

    More than any other artist, Toulouse-Lautrec (1864–1901) is associated with Montmartre for his sketches and posters of dancers at the Moulin Rouge and other dance halls. They epitomize the era to this day .

    Toulouse-Lautrec
  8. Raoul Dufy

    The painter Dufy (1877– 1953) lived at Villa Guelma on the boulevard de Clichy from 1911 to 1953, when he was at the height of his career.

  9. Amedeo Modigliani

    The Italian painter (1884–1920) and sculptor arrived in Paris in 1906, when he was 22, and was greatly influenced by Toulouse-Lautrec and the other artists on the Montmartre scene.

  10. Edgar Degas

    Edgar Degas was born in Paris in 1834 and lived in the city for the whole of his life, most of the time in Montmartre. He died here in 1917 and is buried in the Montmartre cemetery.

Places to Escape the Crowds

  1. St-Jean l’Evangéliste de Montmartre

    This 1904 church is a clash of styles, from Moorish to Art Nouveau.

    • 21 rue des Abbesses, 75018

    • Open daily

    • Free

  2. Montmartre City Hall

    On display in this fine building are two Utrillo paintings.

    • 1 pl Jules-Joffrin, 75018

    • Metro Jules Joffrin

  3. Hameau des Artistes

    This little hamlet of artists’ studios is private, but no one will mind if you take a quiet look round.

    • 11 ave Junot, 75018

  4. Musée de la Vie Romantique

    Writer George Sand frequently visited the owner of this house, artist Ary Scheffer. The building is now devoted to her works.

    • 16 rue Chaptal, 75009

    • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

    • Admission charge

  5. Musée Gustave Moreau

    The former home of Symbolist artist Moreau now displays a large collection of his works.

    • 14 rue de La Rochefoucauld, 75009

    • Open 10am–12:45pm, 2–5:15pm Wed–Mon

    • Admission charge

    • www.musee-moreau.fr

  6. Halle Saint Pierre

    A fascinating cultural centre that exhibits naive, folk and “raw” art (Art Brut).

    • 2 rue Ronsard, 75018

    • 01 42 58 72 89

    • Open 10am–6pm daily

    • Admission charge

  7. Cité Véron

    This cul-de-sac is home to the Académie des Arts Chorégraphiques, a prestigious dance school.

    • 92 blvd de Clichy, 75018

  8. Square Suzanne-Buisson

    Named after a World War II Resistance fighter, this square is a romantic spot.

  9. Rue de Poteau Market

    This great food market is a long way from the tourist crowds.

    • Metro Jules Joffrin

    Rue de Poteau market
  10. Chapelle des Martyrs

    Also known as the Martyrium, this 19th-century chapel is said to be on the spot where St Denis was beheaded by the Romans in AD 250.

    • 11 rue Yvonne-Le-Tac, 75018

    • Chapel: open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; crypt: open 3–6pm Fri

    • Admission charge

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