good-value department store is where real Romans shop, for
back-to-school clothes, kitchen utensils, stationery, household
appliances, and much, much more. There’s also a supermarket in the
basement, which is great for buying a picnic.
Via Cola di Rienzo 173
of the best grocers in the city, extremely popular at lunchtime for its
hot dishes and in the evening for its fried and baked calzone (stuffed pizza pockets). Locals start queueing up at 5pm.
Via Cola di Rienzo 204
gastronomic temple of Rome since 1932, this shop is piled high with
packaged and prepared speciality foods from countries the world over,
such as Japan, Greece, India, China and the Middle East.
Via Cola di Rienzo 196
provides all that’s new in the world of Italian youth fashion. Whether
it’s jeans, shirts or shoes you’re after, all are on offer for both
Via Cola di Rienzo 143
From kitchenware to furniture, Azi gives slick ideas for the home from top Italian designers.
Via L Manara 7
higher prices than most but better selection and more fashionable wares
at this stock house for mostly women’s suits and skirts.
Via Simone de Saint Bon 85–7
Discount outlet for industrial design objects and various homewares.
Via Visconti 96
Polvere di Tempo
timepieces, including hour glasses, various sundials, candle clocks,
astrolabes, all hand crafted by the Argentinian owner.
Via del Moro 59
This gallery-like shop sells handbags designed by Italian artists and clothing and accessories that border on contemporary art.
Via di San Calisto 9
Massive wine cellar; one of the best selections of fine labels in Rome at reasonable prices.
Piazza Cavour 16
This laid-back pub is a staple of Trastevere nightlife. The atmosphere is always lively, with tables on the piazza in summer.
Piazza S Egidio 12–13
Located on a quiet street, this charming bar has a relaxed atmosphere and a pretty outdoor terrace that is popular in summer.
Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 17
quiet neighbourhood bar is the antithesis of the trendy Trastevere
scene. Locals come here to play cards, read papers and catch up on the
day’s gossip. Welcoming atmosphere and drinks at reasonable prices.
Piazza San Calisto
Caffè delle Arance
and indifferent, sullen service but a prime location smack on
Trastevere’s public “living room”, Piazza Santa Maria. The spremuta (freshly squeezed orange juice) is made from a kilo of oranges.
Piazza S Maria in Trastevere 2
Big Hilda Café
A welcoming joint offering rock ‘n’ roll, cheap drinks and a range of sandwiches and salads.
Vicolo del Cinque 33–4
semi-circular bar and restaurant is always packed with Trastevere
regulars. The menu includes inventive dishes and excellent bar
Piazza Trilussa 34
new and positively thriving wine bar, with pleasingly dark wood
interior and plenty of seating out front on the cobblestones. Light
snacks and cocktails are served too.
Via della Lungaretta 86
Roma Caput Mundi
of Rome’s most popular Irish pubs with a corner location that most
locals pass through for a pint of Kilkenny or Harp during the evening.
Via Luciano Manara 64
wood-filled, classically styled 16th-century tavern, with coffered
ceilings, and offering more than 60 wines by the glass. Typical osteria
dishes are on offer too.
Borgo Pio 21
Very popular British-style bar with a vaguely old-fashioned sporting theme and a faithful English expat clientele.
Vicolo del Cinque 29