COIN
This good-value department store is where real Romans shop, for back-to-school clothes, kitchen utensils, stationery, household appliances, and much, much more. There’s also a supermarket in the basement, which is great for buying a picnic.
Via Cola di Rienzo 173
Franchi
One of the best grocers in the city, extremely popular at lunchtime for its hot dishes and in the evening for its fried and baked calzone (stuffed pizza pockets). Locals start queueing up at 5pm.
Via Cola di Rienzo 204
Castroni
The gastronomic temple of Rome since 1932, this shop is piled high with packaged and prepared speciality foods from countries the world over, such as Japan, Greece, India, China and the Middle East.
Via Cola di Rienzo 196
Energie
Energie provides all that’s new in the world of Italian youth fashion. Whether it’s jeans, shirts or shoes you’re after, all are on offer for both sexes.
Via Cola di Rienzo 143
Azi
From kitchenware to furniture, Azi gives slick ideas for the home from top Italian designers.
Via L Manara 7
New Fashion
Slightly higher prices than most but better selection and more fashionable wares at this stock house for mostly women’s suits and skirts.
Via Simone de Saint Bon 85–7
Stock Market
Discount outlet for industrial design objects and various homewares.
Via Visconti 96
Polvere di Tempo
Non-mechanical timepieces, including hour glasses, various sundials, candle clocks, astrolabes, all hand crafted by the Argentinian owner.
Via del Moro 59
Temporary Love
This gallery-like shop sells handbags designed by Italian artists and clothing and accessories that border on contemporary art.
Via di San Calisto 9
Costantini
Massive wine cellar; one of the best selections of fine labels in Rome at reasonable prices.
Piazza Cavour 16
Ombre Rosse
This laid-back pub is a staple of Trastevere nightlife. The atmosphere is always lively, with tables on the piazza in summer.
Piazza S Egidio 12–13
Chakra
Located on a quiet street, this charming bar has a relaxed atmosphere and a pretty outdoor terrace that is popular in summer.
Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 17
Bar Calisto
This quiet neighbourhood bar is the antithesis of the trendy Trastevere scene. Locals come here to play cards, read papers and catch up on the day’s gossip. Welcoming atmosphere and drinks at reasonable prices.
Piazza San Calisto
Caffè delle Arance
Overpriced and indifferent, sullen service but a prime location smack on Trastevere’s public “living room”, Piazza Santa Maria. The spremuta (freshly squeezed orange juice) is made from a kilo of oranges.
Piazza S Maria in Trastevere 2
Big Hilda Café
A welcoming joint offering rock ‘n’ roll, cheap drinks and a range of sandwiches and salads.
Vicolo del Cinque 33–4
Friends
The semi-circular bar and restaurant is always packed with Trastevere regulars. The menu includes inventive dishes and excellent bar sandwiches.
Piazza Trilussa 34
Enoteca Trastevere
A new and positively thriving wine bar, with pleasingly dark wood interior and plenty of seating out front on the cobblestones. Light snacks and cocktails are served too.
Via della Lungaretta 86
Roma Caput Mundi
One of Rome’s most popular Irish pubs with a corner location that most locals pass through for a pint of Kilkenny or Harp during the evening.
Via Luciano Manara 64
Borgo Antico
A wood-filled, classically styled 16th-century tavern, with coffered ceilings, and offering more than 60 wines by the glass. Typical osteria dishes are on offer too.
Borgo Pio 21
Mr Brown
Very popular British-style bar with a vaguely old-fashioned sporting theme and a faithful English expat clientele.
Vicolo del Cinque 29
