Louise Cummings falls
for the charms of the idyllic Cotswolds…
With its charming
honey-hued limestone houses, lust green rolling hills and enchanting sleepy
hamlets, it’s hardly surprising that The Cotswolds has been described as ‘the
most English and least spoiled of all our countrysides’ (JB Priestley). It’s as
quintessentially English as a cup of Earl Grey and a cucumber sandwich, and
every summer tourists arrive in their coachloads for clotted cream scones in
Broadway or a stroll around Stow-on-the-Wold.
Having holidayed in
the pictureque region, bordered by Cheltenham, Bristol, Bath,
Startford-upon-Avonm Gloucester and Oxford, I know it’s standing room only in
the summer. So my partner and I decided to pay an autumnal visit, taking our
bikes along so we could explore the picture postcard villages on two wheels.
Our first stop was
The Frogmill Hotel at Andoversford – a delightful countryside retreat with just
29 rooms – surrounded by rolling countryside, yet just six miles from
Cheltenham. Arriving on a wet, wintry night I was like a homing pigeon as I
spotted a roaring log fire in the lounge. Once defrosted, we headed up the
windy stairs to our room, which was the epitome of cosy, boasting dark beams, a
huge velvet armchair, tartan bed throw and warming accents of red and brown.
After a pre-dinner
drink in the intimate bar, we feasted on a hearty dinner; Kevin couldn’t resist
the Frogmill frogs legs with garlic butter and I loved the warming parsnip soup
with truffle oil. Our scrumptious main of chicken breast on poached leek with
potato gratin and a red wine and thyme sauce was divine, the potatoes perfectly
crispy on the outside, and the chicken chargrilled and succulent.
Next day, after a
full English, we were set up for a day’s exploring starting at Chedworth Roman
Villa – a National Trust site – and home to the remains of one of the largest
Roman villas in the country. Discovered by chance in 1864 by a gamekeeper on the
Earl of Eldon’s estate, it has been subsequently excavated to reveal intricate
mosaics to rival those in Pompeii, a water shrine, bathhouses and hypocausts.
The majestic Sudeley
Castle – once home to Katherine Parr (who lays buried in the nearby chapel) –
was next on our tourist trail. Now a private home, the West wing has been
transformed into a fascinating exhibition about the castle’s occupants
throughout history. We were particularly captivated by Sudeley’s award-winning
gardens, from the cleverly designed Knot Garden (I could have gazed at it all
day) to the Queens Garden, billowing with hundreds of old roses, and the
impressive pheasantry.
That evening, we
arrived at our home for the next two nights – The Old Swan and Minster Mill – a
truly heavenly hotel nestled on the River Windrush in the chocolate box village
of Minster Lovell. The Old Swan was built in the 15th century as a
traditional coaching inn and has attracted famous guests including Sir Winston
Churchill and Sir Harold Wilson, who enjoyed his honeymoon there. The adjoining
mill was added in the 18th century. Today, the boutique hotel, which
was bought by property magnate Peter De Savary and his wife Lana in 2010, has
46 luxurious contemporary rooms in the mill and 16 beautiful ‘character’ suites
and rooms in the Old Swan. We were delighted to have been allocated the Richard
III suit in the Old Swan (where Richard III’s servatns would stay).
Entering into our
comfortable lounge, a decanter of sloe gin had thoughtfully been provided for
us. Stepping up a level, we discovered a gorgeous beamed bathroom, then hopped
back down to our bedroom, which was dominated by a magnificent four-poster bed.
That evening, we sauntered
downstairs for dinner, settling in an intimate room with an open fire and a
homely feel festooned with Toby jugs, pewter tankards and brass plates. The
food was fantastic and the presentation impeccable; the Devonshire crab and
Windrush crayfish cocktail fresh and zesty, while the 28-day aged fillet of
beed with peppercorn sauce was rich and satisfying. Having then indulged in
chocolate fondant and treacle tart, it only seemed right that we pencilled in a
long bike ride the next day.
We had found a
Windrush Valley cycle route to the market town of Northleach, which Kevin
assured me was around 17 miles so we set off in the autumn sunshine. The
scenery was just breathtaking as we meandered through quaint villages,
including Little Barrington and Sherborne, and crossed through the picturesque
town of Burford. At times we were pedalling alongside the River Windrush with
buzzards soaring over head, free-wheeling down steep hills with the wind
rushing through our hair or stopping to pet some friendly horses. it was an
exhilarating way to see the jewels of the Cotswolds.
A sight
miscalculation on Kevin’s part meant that the cycle route was in fact 17 miles
one way, so after a 34-mile epic we just made it back before dusk! But the
aching legs and windswept face were soon appeased with a glass of sloe gin, a
bubbly bath and a wonderful night’s sleep in that four poster. As you can
imagine, it was with a heavy heart we left The Old Swan, but with our next stop
being Stow-on-the-Wold, I couldn’t wait to carry on our tour of England’s
‘least spoiled countrysides’…
