With the return of established houses and spellbinding
collections from new labels, a fresh energy swept through the haute couture
spring/summer 2012 shows, marie claire took a front-row seat.
Christian Dior
Christian Dior
An X-ray vision of the Parisian house’s
iconic look was the focus of an intimate presentation at its Avenue Montaigne
headquarters. Layers of tulle and folds of transparent silk revealed the
complex construction of the collection, exposing the underpinnings of
wasp-waisted dresses and flared, full skirts. Bill Gaytten, the designer who
has held the position of acting creative director since the departure of John
Galliano, echoed this effect in a dramatic series of ball gowns in degrade grey
and fiery red, which closed the show.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli
This may only the Italian-born designer’s
second made-to-measure season, but his elegant collection proved he’s no novice
when it comes to couture. And ode to the art of the atelier, the show drew on
the sculptural silhouettes and impossibly intricate detailing that are the
markers of haute fashion. Peplum jackets were twisted into giant bows, while
appliquéd blooms were scattered across coat dresses and clustered over lace
cocktail skirts. The mostly monochrome palette gave way to a burst of ripe
berry shades for a finale of sweeping chiffon gowns.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier
From the moment the first model sauntered
out with a black beehive, an exaggerated flick of eyeliner and a pencil skirt
cinched with a lurid orange belt, it was clear that late singer Amy Winehouse
would figure in the French designer’s collection. The looks that followed were
a tribute to her irreverent style, which somehow managed to marry the jazz
icon’s ragged flamboyance with the grandeur of couture. Pinstriped suits cut to
fall suggestively off the shoulder and satin-trimmed corsets were paraded to a
cappella renditions of the songstress’s music, which underscored her absence.
Chanel
Chanel
Designer Karl Lagerfeld took couture to the
skies and beyond with a set designed to look like a futuristic space shuttle.
Champagne was served from wheeled trolleys as guests took their places on
numbered, airline-style seats. Painted entirely in blue (154 shades, to be
exact), the collection’s drop-waisted silhouette lent the decadently
embellished designs an air of ease. Iridescent paillettes added a glimmering
edge to slim, straight dresses, and tweed jackets were threaded with glittering
crystals. If only we could all travel Air Chanel…
Atelier Versace
The Italian fashion house has always sent
flashbulbs popping, and the scene was no different at the label’s much
anticipated return to haute couture. Standing front row was a line-up of
Hollywood starlets, drawn by the siren call of designer Donatella Versace’s
glamorous gowns. Stepping down a series of gilded steps, models pouted and
posed in curve-contouring bodysuits and sparkling lace dresses, sculpted with
gleaming gold corsets. The fiercely feminine designs had a futuristic appeal,
highlighted by synthetic hues of acid green and shocking yellow.
Atelier Versace
Valentine
Valentine
Opening with a smocked gown in whisper-thin
organza that took more than 1,000 hours to create, Pier Paolo Piccioli and
Maria GraziaChiuri’s romantic collection drew inspiration from portraits of a
young Marie Antoinette. Delecate floral prints trailed over taffeta coats were
paired with billowing skirts, while floor-sweeping silk dresses were veiled
with a filmy cloud of tulle and lace. Although the silhouette was demure,
models had a casual grace, striding out in dainty flat slippers, their hair
tied back loosely with pale pink ribbons.
Armani Privé
Armani Privé
Designer Giorgio Armani took the serpent
and metamorphosis as his themes for a powerful collection that was shown in a
spectrum of green. A line-up of precision-cut jackets were worn with mesh tops
cut in the shape of scales, and sleek trousers or skirts folded to resemble
cocoons. From the chrysalis of day wear emerged the evening looks – a
show-stopping set of sinuous gowns that twisted around the models’ slender
forms in shimmering sequins. Models wore their hair nonchalantly undone as a
contemporary counterpoint to the all-out opulence.
Want to see more?
You can view further beautiful images from
the couture shows on your smartphone or iPad right now. If you have an iPhone,
iPad or Android phone, follow these simple steps to get started:
1. Download the free Digimarc Discover app
from the iTunes App Store or Android Market.
2. Launch the app, click ‘look’ and point
your camera over the photo at the top of this page.
3. Wait for your phone to beep and the
additional images will appear.
