From the Kanes and the Rochas to the
Rykiels and Missonis, meet the design dynasties for whom success is all
relative.
The solid family unit, It doesn't sound
very fashion, does it? But from airy corners of Dalston to the decks of
super-yachts, designers are surrounding themselves with trusted family members.
Perhaps this is a reaction against the big fashion conglomerates, or maybe it's
just that the rag trade has always been about exchanging skills with your
nearest and dearest.
Christopher Kane, who showed one of the
most thought-provoking collections of the season, designs under his own name.
Behind the scenes, though, is his big sister Tammy. Like many of these
relationships, there is a division of power: the creative alongside the techie
or the financial whizz. `Tammy has a lot to do with the business side; she's
very sharp. I can always trust her opinions,' says Kane.
Christopher
Kane and his big sister Tammy
But it's in Italy where the real fashion
power families reside. There are the Missonis - three generations of fashion
brilliance, with a zig-zagged family home so hip it acted as the backdrop for
last summer's ad campaign, shot by Juergen Teller. Then there are the Cavallis,
Armanis, Versaces, a husband, wife and daughter at
Marni, the Ferrettis and the Etros . In a
world where the corporation is king, it's no bad thing to have a super-luxe
family heritage, so potential customers can understand the story behind the
clothes - and, hopefully, crave a slice of the action. Margherita Missoni says
that although the three generations of Missoni women have different styles, `we
have similar tastes, we share the same aesthetic'. Sounds pretty neat being
born into some sort of designing dynasty - and just think of all the free
clothes
The knitwear crafters … The Missonis
Rosita and Tai married in 1953 and set up a
small knitting company in northern Italy the same year. Today, the hugely successful
Missoni brand is still family run and owned. Daughter Angela and granddaughter
Margherita (right, with Rosita) are creative director and head of accessories
and swimwear design, respectively. Margherita says `Fashion is a family
passion. It's been a part of my life since I was born. My relationship with my
mother works well - she trusts me.
Rosita
(right) with her daughter Angela and granddaughter Margherita
Talented designers who work for someone
else's fashion house often have to adapt their own way of seeing the world to
fit someone else's ideal. That is not our case.' Rosita says `I kept my fingers
crossed that Angela would take over as creative director. I knew she had the
right skills and enjoyed the confidence of the company.'
The glamazons … The Cavallis
Roberto Cavalli met Eva, the woman who
would become his wife and creative director, when he was judging the 1977 Miss
Universe competition. Eva says `Living and working together has not always been
easy because in your private life you keep on thinking about work. I wouldn't
say that I am the boss.
Fashion
designer Roberto Cavalli and his wife Eva
We are a team, and a great fit. We bounce
ideas and concepts off one another. Roberto often has many ideas at once as he
has so much energy for life, while I am more reserved. We're a very close
family.' Roberto says ‘Eva has an acute eye for detail and will pick up on
things I would never have envisaged. The best feeling is when I have an idea
that Eva loves and I see the glint in her eye to make it a reality.'
The chip the old block … The Rochas
John Rocha has been designing off-beat
fashions for over 20 years. His wife Odette is a company director and now his
daughter Simone has followed in her parents' footsteps, launching her own
eponymous clothing line in 2010.
John
Rocha and His wife Odette
Simone says `I work with my mum for sales
and production; she has so much experience and knowledge of the industry. She
comes with me to Paris for sales and looks amazing every day. Creatively, I
have learned from my dad to question myself. I remember the first of his shows
I went to - it was menswear and all the models looked like skinny cowboys. In
the run-up to London Fashion Week we don't have much time to see each other,
it's more of a quick phone chat'
The mavericks … The Kanes
Creative director Christopher and his chief
executive sister, Tammy, launched their label in 2006. Anna Wintour was at
their first show. They haven't looked back.
Christopher says `Tammy and I have known
each other for 29 years – since I've been around. It's great. We trust each
other, we bicker but we make up. She is basically the main collaborator that I
work with; she's the person I'd go to and say, "What do you think of
this?" She'll be like, "Hmm," and I'll take on board what she
says. I don't think I could have done it without her. I don't know how
designers succeed without having someone like her by their side.'
The digital duo … Peter Pilotto
Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos first
showed at London Fashion Week in 2007. Their womenswear embraces new and
classic perspectives on elegance, with an emphasis on digital print.
De Vos's brother Lyonel (above left, with
Christopher) is the label's catwalk music producer. Christopher says `I give
Lyonel artistic and creative freedom, but I still have to like the music. We've
learned there's nothing better than having a good relationship with your
brother - even when I like Eminem and he doesn't.'
The rebels … The Rykiels
Sonia Rykiel revolutionised the way women
dress with her inside-out stitching and `no lining' dressing, which reflected
her new fashion philosophy - la demode (unfashion). She has been tearing up the
fashion rule book since the 1970s and now daughter Nathalie continues the
family tradition as the label's vice president.
Nathalie says `You want to impress your
family, so you work twice as hard to find your place. I am not trying to
replace my mother, I just try to develop and reinvent her philosophy and
quirkiness.'
The betrohed … Preen
Engaged couple Justin Thornton and Thea
Bregazzi met at the age of 18 on the Isle of Man. After working together at
another fashion house, they launched Preen at the end of the 90s. Their clothes
are now stocked in more than 25 countries worldwide.
Thea says `We sit opposite each other at
the same big desk, discussing and experimenting all the time. There is hard and
soft in our work, because we area man and woman. Do we ever have those
arguments where one of us says, "That's it, I quit"? Yes, all the
time.'
