women

One Season, Five Trends

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There’s concise beauty directive for autumn/winter that’s as simple as it is beautiful.

Description: Estée Lauder’s palette is the beauty equivalent of a Rubik’s Cube

1.    Eye color show

Who would have thought it? After seasons where eyes played second fiddle to amped-up lips, The experimental techniques and flourishes of color that we have come to expect from nail art have moved upwards, and we’re delighted. Think bright blue, red, crimson, purple and green singing from the eye socket – more often than not, all at the same time. Take Prabal Gurung, where make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury applied what seemed like the entire blue and green contents of her kit on to models’ eyes, inspired by the film Avatar and beetles’ wings. At Dries Van Noten, Peter Philips simply color-blocked eyes in a sunburnt orange that somehow looked as alluring as it was unexpected. So don’t put away your favorite summer colors now that autumn is upon us, because this season rainbow hues reign.

Try this now: Estée Lauder’s palette is the beauty equivalent of a Rubik’s Cube, Layer up different shades and the color possibilities abound.

Description: For me, this season is about a strong look: wishy-washy is out. It’s a multiple-choice season, not one for fence-sitters

“For me, this season is about a strong look: wishy-washy is out. It’s a multiple-choice season, not one for fence-sitters” Sam McKnight, Pantene global ambassador

2.    Keeping it real

Say hello to real-girl beauty, a “taking what you have got and enhancing it” approach to make-up. It was seen in the form of a flush of blush at Chloé and Michael Kors, via the invisible contouring at Karen Walker and Alexander Wang, or through the notable lack of the usual theatrics at Dior and Vivienne Westwood. Either way, this trend served as a compelling competitor to other strong make-up looks and resulted in a beautiful state of nothingness. Jenna Menard, Clinique’s global color artist, championed this honed approach: “To undetectably enhance the structure of the face is simple but effective, purely because it’s totally believable – who doesn’t want to look like this?”

Description: Mac’s Contouring Creams have been trialled backstage for the past four seasons

Try this now: Mac’s Contouring Creams have been trialled backstage for the past four seasons and, due to popular demand, are now finally available to buy. Work into cheekbones with fingers, et voilà – it’s Contouring made easy.

Mac cosmetics pro-sculpting cream in pure sculpture, $26

Chanel illusion d’ombre in vision, $35

3.    Graphic design

Invisible, floating, graphic...Just a few of the adjectives bandied backstage for describing the season’s eyeliner techniques. More noteworthy still, though, was the term “non-retro”, as lining of lashes took a steer way from Sixties feline and into the geometric. Take liner-queen make-up artist Val Garland, for example, who declared backstage: “Long live liner! This season it was all about the eyes – liner is more architectural, less Fifties or Sixties. It’s immediately more modern.” Look to Erdem’s tiny thorn of liner that somehow had a miraculous face-lifting effect, or even the broken-up calligraphy on the eyes at Mary Katrantzou that rewrote the classic sihouette of the eye.

Description: Clarins’s 3-Dot Liner, $30, was disigned to fill the gaps between lashes

Try this now: Clarins’s 3-Dot Liner, $30, was disigned to fill the gaps between lashes, but its three-pronged tip means you can get creative on sockets, too.

4.    Going straight

Those of us with finer – yes, perhaps even limper – hair can collectively rejoice in the fact that straight (to the point of flat) hair played a leading role in hairdressers’ style repertoires. The key element? It needed to be very, very shiny, with an almost glass-like finish, if only to emphasise just how perfected it was. A popular accent to the straight hair was “the pullback’, as showcased by Guido Palau at Prada. “Without a parting, this hair steps away from being too grungy. It makes it look more considered and turns it into a style,” he says. “Dishevelled hair has been in fashion for so long, it’s refreshing to see straight hair again.” Agreed.

Description: Products are key to changing the composition and texture of hair

Try this now: Products are key to changing the composition and texture of hair. Keep it on the straight and narrow with Redken’s Sheer Straight 06, $23, which will keep kinds at bay.

5.    Dark romance

If even you’ve toyed with the idea of embracing your inner goth, this is the season to do it. Autumn’s traditional red tips and smoky eye have been reworked in favor of chocolate-brown lipsticks, soft washes haloing the eyes, and chalky, alabaster skin. Tim Burton, Edward Scissorhands, the Addams Family and paintings by Rossetti were the references – just add kohl pencil and an air of mystery.

Description: There was a dark mood for a/w beauty

“There was a dark mood for a/w beauty. What made it modern was that it was gothic but not theatrical – it had an ethereal lightness to it.” Guido Palau, Redken creative consultant

Sheer genius

It’s a strange paradox that the products we need most in our lives are the ones we lavish least attention upon. You might spend hours trailing around after the perfect gold sandal or neon polish, but it’s the plain, well-cut T-shirt and understated lip glosses that pay the greatest dividends. By rights then, Aerin Lauder’s eponymous new beauty line should have slipped by unnoticed, because every product in the tightly edited line-up is a future classic. “They are mistake-proof,” says the beauty heiress and granddaughter of Estee, whose own life hovers somewhere between frantic and fabulous, and requires make-up to match. The result is neutral washes of color in a palette of bronzes and picks that somehow imbue a sheen of glossy good grooming to an otherwise nude complexion. Unsurprisingly, the two standouts are the products Aerin was most keen to include: the gently sun-kissed bronzer and a glossy lip balm. Even the packaging emanates good taste, with its pale pink and gold inspired by the color of Aerin’s bathroom in her Upper East Side apartment. Looks like beauty essentials might just be headline-worthy after all. NM At Harrods and Brown Thomas, Dublin, from September 3.

Description: Aerin Lauder’s new launch is the essence of understated elegance

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