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From silk-damask trouser suits to jacquardmaxi coats, military tailoring and deep, rich tones… be inspired as designersexplore a darker side.

The perfect gait: What else to wear withTomas Maier’s beautifully Slimline coat but the ultimate pair of riding boots?

Laura wears fine-wool coat, $ 4165. Leatherboots, $ 1160. Leather gloves, $ 415. All Bottega Veneta. Cotton turtleneckbody, $ 165. Wolford. Cotton shirt, $ 1100, Hermes. Opaque tights, from $ 56,Gerbe

Gucci’s pedigree is one of opulent glamour.This season Frida Giannini moves to a darker, poetic place, revisiting thelounge suit in an intriguing fern hue

Description: Laura

Laura

The old-world romance of steam travelinspired marc Jacobs. Of course, the Louis Vuitton voyager is groomed toperfection in a Bejewelled Day coat

Elena wears wool coat with jewel buttons,to order, Louis Buitton. Cotton turtleneck, $ 31, Uniqlo. Cotton shirt, $ 1100,Hermès

Description: Elena

Elena

At heel with the military trend, saluteMassimiliano Giornetti’s authoritative coats and officer-sharp suiting

Madison wears wool cape, $ 4039. Silk top,$ 939. Belted wool shirt, $ 1356. All Salvatore Ferragamo. Tulle bra, $ 235,Eres. Leather gloves, from $ 627, Givenchy by Riccardo Tidei, at Matches andSelfridges. Hold-ups, $ 31, Falke. Lesther shoes, $ 690, Manolo Blahnik. Goldhoop earrings, $ 933, Astley Clarke

Description: Madison

Madison



Rich berry shades dominated the season;executed with Ackermann’s architectural control the effect is exquisite

Marie wears wool cape, from $ 1553. Wool PoloNeck from $ 557, Ribbed wool snood, from $ 736, Leather corset belt, from $3640. Suede gloves, from $ 375. All Haider Ackermann at Dover Street Market,Selfridges and Ln-cc.com. Ribbon, worn in hair from $ 16 a metre, VV Rouleaux

Description: Marie

Marie

Dark romance: The Dior woman’s wardrobe stillshowcases a lovely bygone refinement

Xia wears brocade coatdress, $6437, Dior.Cotton turtleneck body, $ 165, Wolford. Cotton shirt, $ 1099, Hermes. Gold anddiamond locker, $ 8635. Annina Vogel, at Liberty

Description: Xia

Xia

Karl Lagerfeld thinks about the modern mix;right now, that’s a cyber-punkish blend of a fuzzy sweater with a crisp cottonshirt and leather-panelled pleated skirt

Kolfinna wears angora, mohair and chenillesweater with orchid motif, $ 2892. Pleated felt and Eelskin skirt, $ 3925. BothFrendi. Cotton turtleneck, $ 31, Uniqlo. Cotton shirt, $ 1099, Hermes. Silverinterlinked ring, $170. Ha-Yeon Lee at Harvey Nichols. Silver twig  Knuckledusterring, $ 165. Silver twig ring, $ 298. Both Noemi Klein. Silver ID bracelet, $573, Tiffany. Facial jewellery, from $7. Find similar in St Mark’s Place. NewYork

Description: Kolfinna

Kolfinna

And the rosette goes to… brooches are back,and look just lovely pinned on Chanel’s drop-shouldered coat – the new line tolove

Melisa wears tweed coat, $ 4137. Tweeddress, $ 3744. Tweed trousers, $ 1798. All Chanel. Silk scarf, $ 416. Gucci.Silver, agate and crystal brooch, $ 3603. Bottega Veneta. Leather glover, from$ 61, Chester Jefferies. Patent-leather shoes, $ 730, Valentino

Description: Melisa

Melisa


Out of office: Roberto Cavalli leads the way on trouser suits for the evening hour – a flared shape that drops from the knee has leg-lengthening powers

Mackenzie wears brocade, $ 3438. Brocade trousers, $2614. Both Roberto Cavalli. Cotton turtleneck, $31, Uniqlo. Cotton shirt, $1099, Hermes. Cashmere cardigan, worn back to front, $296, Brora. Whit-gold Tank Anglaise watch, $35325, Cartier

Description: Mackenzie

Mackenzie

Prada’s optical-illusion prints aren’t as out-there as you’d imagine. Think of them as a display of orderly grids and geometrics

Andie wears sleeveless silk/ wool coat embroidered with crystals, $3297. Sleeveless cotton shirt embroidered with crystals, $651. Silk/ wool trousers embroidered with crystals, $1727. Jacquard bag, $3062. Leather shoes, $1335. All Prada. Cotton turtleneck body, $165, Wolford. Beauty note: encourage obedient hair with Redken’s new Powder Refresh 01, $24

Description: Andie

Andie

Emma Hill’s Navy skirt suit has all the tongue-in-cheek prime of miss Jean Brodie

Magda wears double-breasted jacquard coat, $1491, Mulberry. Cotton turtleneck, $31, Uniqlo. Cotton shirt, $1099, Hermes, studded gold hoop earnings, from $2040, Solange Azagury-Patridge

Description: Magda

Magda

Riccardo Tisci may have had horses in mind when he fashioned his butter-soft leather joghpurs and riding boots, but you don’t need one top jump on the trend

Cora wears jeweled wool sweater, from $3485. Leather trousers, to order. Leather boots, from $2857. Leather gloves, from $628. All Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, from a selection, at matches and Selfridges. Cotton turtleneck body, $165, Wolford.

Description: Cora

Cora

Thanks to All Creatures Great and Small, All Tame Animals and All Star Animals.

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