Big hair continues to reign
supreme in 2012. But you don't need to have Cheryl's stylist on speed-dial to
get the look, thanks to the latest products and insider tricks
What do we want? Big and
bouncy! When do we want it? Now! So says a recent study that found volumised
hair was at the top of the wish list for 80% of women, beating style, length
and celeb copycat looks to the number one spot. And it's hardly surprising.
Full locks say healthy, sexy and, even when they're groomed to perfection,
ensure heads turn. But what if you're not blessed with gravity-defying hair and
your mane is, well, limp? We asked some of the UK's leading hair stylists to
reveal their secrets.
Cut
For towering style, your
hairdresser is the first port of call. For while the latest high-tech
hair-boosting products and styling techniques can work wonders, it's harder
when your style s too long, heavy or feathery.
'Simply having your hair
shorter can often add instant volume,' says Giles Robinson, senior stylist at
John Frieda. "This is because, as hair gets longer, it also becomes
heavier, robbing your style of its natural oomph.' Also, regular cuts (every
six to eight weeks, ladies) to maintain shape and get rid of those damaged bits
at the end are essential. Hair super-fine? Ask for a blunt cut to maximise
volume (the solid edge makes your hair appear thicker) and avoid going OTT on
the layers, as they make fine hair look stringy, although a few face framing
ones can add shape and movement.
'I like to create invisible
layers by slicing the hair through,' says George Northwood, stylist at London's
Josh Wood Atelier. "They're much finer than normal layers so they're only
detectable when your hair moves and the delicate layers are great at adding natural
body and texture.' If you're having some cut into the front section of your
hair, don't go higher than chin level (it's less flattering and difficult to
style) and ask for them to be cut in randomly to create the most natural,
fuller-hair effect. Symmetrically placed layers scream Jennifer Aniston's
'Rachel' cut, circa Friends 1995.
Colour
Oh yes, even your colour
can make a huge difference to how volumised your hair looks. 'It seriously
affects the appearance of your hair's texture and thickness' says colour expert
Lisa Shepherd. 'OK, so it won't actually make it thicker, but colour does
roughen the hair shaft, making it feel thicker and creating the illusion of
fuller hair.' Your chosen hue is important, too.'[ almost always recommend
adding in a few highlights or lowlights to give a multi-tonal effect to the
hair, especially if you've never had colour before, as it immediately gives
your style more depth,' she adds. Do see a professional colourist to get the
best effect; if you're having highlights it's likely you'll need to have your
hair bleached, which, if not done correctly, could make your hair look and feel
weaker.
Create
Every hair stylist has a
host of volume- boosting tricks up their sleeve to add body to fine hair,
texture to short, and weightlessness to heavy hair. And they're actually quite
simple to do yourself.
To start with, arm yourself
with the right products - you'll need light formulas that help eliminate excess
oil at the roots, as this is where you want to be creating volume and lift. Every
stylist we talked to wouldn't be without volumising mousse - it's vital in
creating texture and body because, as your hair dries, the ingredients coat and
then thicken individual hairs (rather than binding them like hairspray does).
'Apply a golfball-sized
amount {if you have medium to long hair, less if it's shorter) all over to
towel-dried hair and begin by blow- drying your roots first with your dryer on
a low heat and speed,' says Ghd's creative director and session stylist, Kenna.
'When your style is about 80% dry, flip your head upside down and continue
drying with your fingers, letting gravity help you build volume until your hair
is close to dry.'
Next, arm yourself with a
round brush, which helps to lock in extra volume. Lifting sections of your
hair, wrap around the brush, roll up to your scalp and hold in place for a few
seconds while blasting with your hairdryer. 'Once you're done, switch the dryer
to a cool setting for a few seconds to help fix it in place and finish by
tipping your head over once more and spritzing some hairspray at your roots,'
adds Kenna. Keep a mini spray in your handbag for a fast root-boosting fix
during the day.
Care
Never underestimate the
importance of choosing the right shampoo and conditioner for your desired
style. Get this wrong and the cut, blow-drying and styling won't be nearly as
effective. So what should you go for? 'It's best to avoid shampoos containing
silicone, which can soften your hair,' advises Paul Windle, stylist at top
London salon Windle & Moodie. 'Instead, choose simple shampoos containing
body-building ingredients like wheat protein and pro-vitamin B5, which binds
onto the hair shaft, making it look thicker.'
Any shampoos with the words
'conditioning,' 'creamy,' and 'rich,' on the bottle should be avoided -
conditioning shampoos in general make the hair softer in texture, which is
great if you have lots of it but not so good if you want to build oomph. That
doesn't mean, however, that you should skip the conditioner - just be careful
how you use it. A 10p-sized amount is enough, even for longer hair and (this is
key) you should run it through the ends only. And always rinse hair thoroughly
in warm water to get rid of excess product - it takes at least a minute to get
your hair squeaky clean, so don't rush your rinse. 'If you don't want to wash
your hair every day, a leave-in conditioning spray is a good, lighter
alternative,' adds Paul.
