My journey to Kallialay began on a previous
trip, when I came to the area to visit the Matrimandir. It’s an all-faith place
of worship founded by the women they call Mother, Auroville’s spiritual leader,
and it stands right at the center of the community – close to where the Rebouls
live. This community was founded in 1968, on the guiding principle of promotion
Sri Aurobindo’s vision of individual and collective life. It’s a philosophy that
residents of Puducherry and travellers can also benefit from. Aurovillians
build houses for sustainable living and farm organic food. Most of the
commune’s restaurant and stores serve organic meals and stock arganic goods.
Take my favorite, Farm Fresh, where you can sit in the garden café and feast on
arganic quiches, omelettes, sandwiches and salads, or shop for essential oils,
candles and soaps, made using locally-farmed produce. After lunch I normally
call in at Auroville Bakery across the street, lurned by its sweet aroma of
fresh cinnamon rolls and chocolate croissants.
Puducherry
is divided between a calm French-built colonial quarter and an energetic
Tamil-dominated area.
I was staying in Puducherry that first
time, as I am now. A friend and I had dinner at a popular garden café called
Satsanga, one of many in the city’s French Quarter. As we wandered past the
bulletin board I noticed a flyer advertising the surf school. It was 11pm, but
I called straight away and Juan answered. I asked if we could come the next
day; he responded, “Let me see if we have space.” We couldn’t believe it: a
surf school in India that might not have room for us! Luckily, Juan found us
two slots the next day.
Puducherry is divided between a calm
French-built colonial quarter and an energetic Tamil-dominated area. The latter
is the commercial center, and is bustling and hectic. In contrast, the French
Quarter’s sleepy streets are picturesque, with walls and gates painted in
bright reds, yellows, blues and greens. Something I love about Puducerry is how
easy it is to navigate by bicycle – I rent one every time was how I stumbled on
places like Café des Arts, a heritage building that hosts exhibitions by artist
from New Delhi, Mumbai, and even Paris. Their brushchetta and chai are
practically works of art.
Many of the French Quarter’s old townhouses
have been converted into boutique-style bed and breakfasts. One of the most
well-known is Gratitude, where Ang Lee shot part of his upcoming film adaption
of Yann Martel’s novel, The Life of Pi. This time I’m staying at Le Dupleix, a
boutique hotel in the home of the former French mayor of Puducherry. As I work
through my Ashtanga Binyasa yoga practice there one afternoon, I see a
beautiful South Indian woman with a long thick plait chatting with customers in
fluent Tamil, English and French. I know from experience she is able to cook
masala dosas and French pastries with equal panache. This cross-cultural side
to Puducherry is one of the things I like most about it.
Masala
dosas
One evening I meet up with Juan and his
wife Annna, along with their three-year-old son Noah (I’ve noticed that all
children from Auroville look stunning, by the way. I put it down to the fresh
air and simple living). We head for dinner at Tanto, a pizzeria, where after we
indulge in possibly the tastiest wood-fired pizza have ever had, Anna explains
that instead of using currency, residents of Auroville have account numbers
that they quote wherever they go, which are settled later via a central
account. Perhaps this is why I struggle to find an ATM whenever I’m in the
area.
Auroville
beach
Having decided to dedicate this trip to
surfing I decide to check out of Le Dupleix and try staying somewhere nearer
the beach. I’, surprised to find many options along Serenity beach. I choose
Nature Loft, a complex of little huts built from dried palm leaves and bamboo.
Mine is a tree house with an ocean view. After two surfing sessions and more
yoga I am exhausted, in that lovely way I remember feeling as a child, after
having played on the beach all day. With a belly full of pizza, I peer through
the bamboo, slits in my tree house wall and see a full moon smiling back at me.
Falling asleep to the roar of the ocean I send love to all my fellow soul
surfers.
