Is an oily complexion once again your main
skin concern? Leyla Tabaksert investigates what’s making us so shiny, and
reveals the new products that can put it right – not a teen range in sight…
Oily
skin is down to overactive sebaceous glands secreting too much sebum (natural
oil). And, naturally, it’s our busy lifestyles that shoulder much of the blame
Presumed you’d said goodbye to oily skin in
your teens – along with Naf Naf sweatshirts, cheap body spray, and a five-man
Take That line-up? Well maybe not. For many of us, oily skin –like Gary, Mark
and co – is in the middle of a full-on comeback. Forget the fine lines and
uneven skin tone we’re supposed to worry about as we age; according to the
latest research, it’s actually oily skin that’s the biggest daily concern of
50% of 30-something women. And, while the British summer has been less than
scorching, there’s no doubt the problem is worse in the warmer months, when
every type of skin secretes more sweat and oil.
Oily skin is down to overactive sebaceous
glands secreting too much sebum (natural oil). And, naturally, it’s our busy
lifestyles that shoulder much of the blame. ‘Genetics play a part, but anything
from hormonal changes, a poor diet and stress to the wrong skincare routine can
make those glands overactive,’ says Fiona Brackenbury, head of training and
education at Decléor.’And you’re much more likely to have those issues in your
30s than any other age.’
The inside track
With such a range of possible triggers,
getting on top of the problem requires a holistic approach, says dermatologist
Dr Howard Murad. ‘The most common mistake women make with skincare is not
taking into account the impact of their overall lifestyle,’ he explains. He
always puts his clients on a clear-skin diet. ‘I simply ask my clients to eat
plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, which are packed with hydrating,
anti-inflammatory and nutrient-rich agents to help their skin look its best,’
he says. You may think you’re doing the right thing by taking supplements of
omega-3 oils, renowned for their skin-nurturing qualities, but Dr Murad warns
they can contribute to the amount of oil in your skin if you pop more than one
a day.
A
major cause of oily skin?
Both Fiona and Dr Murad stress the importance
of ‘emotional self-care’, too, pointing out the direct link between stress and
oily skin. How many times have you been anxious about an upcoming event, only
to find that – typical!- a spot has popped up to add to your worries? ‘It’s so
important to take time for yourself to do the things you enjoy and reduce your
overall stress,’ says Dr Murad. ‘It really will affect the condition of your
skin.’
Every dermatologist we asked also cited
hormonal changes as a major cause of oily skin – so, if your complexion is
seemingly greasier since you started taking the contraceptive pill, it might
not be a coincidence. ‘Some birth-control pills contain androgens – male
hormones – which can be responsible for increased sebum production,’ says
consultant dermatologist Dr Penelope Tympanidis. ‘Hormones can also increase
just before your period or with some cases of polycystic ovaries.’ And if
you’re in your late 30s, the perimenopause – the reproductive stage leading
into the menopause – could be a factor. ‘It usually starts in a woman’s 40s but
it’s not unheard of for it to kick in as early as your 30s,’ says Dr Murad.
‘And as oestrogen levels drop, it’s really common for women to experience skin
changes such as oiliness, as well as blemishes and thinner, duller-looking
skin.’ So, if your oily skin is accompanied by these other symptoms, it’s worth
speaking to your GP.
Powerful products
While you’re dealing with bigger issues or
waiting for those lifestyle changes to have an effect (remember, it can take at
least six weeks to see a difference in your skin), there’s a new generation of
oil-control products aimed at adult oiliness that can provide much-needed
relief. Unlike the drying skincare ranges of your youth, the latest mattifying
products – from BB creams to cleansers – are tailored to grown-up tastes and
boast a serious shot of breakthrough ingredients and oil-control techniques.
‘Today’s sophisticated skincare brands definitely offer more than temporary
benefits,’ says Dr Murad. ‘They treat skin problems, optimmise skin health and
can conceal visible flaws, too, offering long-and short-term results.’
