Until the end of the 19th century, Gràcia was a fiercely proud independent city. Despite locals’ protests, it became part of Barcelona proper in 1898, but has always maintained a sense of separatism and has been a hotbed of political activity. It is now home to a booming cottage industry nurtured by a growing band of artisans. Don’t miss the barrio’s annual fiesta in the second week of August.
Taking the northern route of the Bus Tourístic is the easiest way to negotiate the vast northern area of the city; it also gives discounts on entrance to major sights en route. Start off at Plaça de Catalunya (tickets can be bought on board) and sit on the top deck for a good view of the Modernista magic along Pg de Gràcia. Make the whimsical Parc Güell your first stop and spend the morning ambling around Gaudí’s other-worldly park. Get back on the bus and continue north to the southern end of Av Tibidabo. Walk about 500 m (1600 ft) up Av Tibidabo and stop off for a leisurely lunch in the garden of the palatial El Asador d’Aranda .
After you’ve had your fill of fine Castilian cuisine, continue strolling up Av Tibidabo to Plaça Doctor Andreu where you can hop on the steep funicular train to go higher still to Plaça de Tibidabo. Pop into the Parc d’Atraccions for a ride on the dodgems or the Ferris wheel. Then head to the landmark Torre de Collserola , where a glass elevator whisks you up to an observation deck for spectacular views. Return to Plaça Doctor Andreu on the funicular and treat yourself to a granissat ) in one of the terrace bars. Then go down Av Tibidabo on the charming Tramvia Blau and catch the Bus Tourístic back to the city centre.
Naftalina
Of all the cottage industry boutiques in Gràcia, Naftalina has the most stylish interior – befitting the equally stylish, hand-made designer clothes. Chic, elegant, understated women’s wear with an emphasis on textured fabrics.
C/La Perla 33
Ninas
Nina, an American designer, sells simple, modern women’s clothes made from fine fabrics. The shop is housed in a gorgeous Modernista building which was once a butcher’s, and has a workshop at the back.
C/Verdi 39
Llena eres de Gràcia
For gorgeous women’s fashions, accessories and evening wear at surprisingly reasonable prices, try this colourful boutique. The clothes are very wearable but most have a quirky twist.
C/Ros de Olano 52
José Rivero
José provides his own original in-house creations for men and women; he also sells crafted accessories, including handbags, by young local designers.
C/Astúries 43
Multiart
This fabric workshop sells colourful, hand-printed textiles, bedlinen, and clothes for men and women. It also runs educational dress-making workshops.
C/Sant Joaquim 23
Món de Mones
For colourful jewellery and accessories, try the ‘World of Monkeys’ (món de mones in Catalan) near the Plaça del Sol. The designer, Teresa Roig, uses a variety of materials from glass to felt to create her original designs.
C/Xiquets de Valls 9
Camiseria Pons
One of the oldest shops in this area, this men’s specialist shop sells shirts by top Spanish and international designers, including Ralph Lauren.
Gran de Gràcia 49
Mushi Mushi
From hard-to-find, small labels to the best international collections, this pretty little boutique stocks a fine selection of women’s fashion. It also offers a small range of shoes, bags and accessories.
Plaça Rius i Taulet 5
El Piano
El Piano sells elegant and stylish women’s clothes with a retro flair made by Catalan designer Tina García. It also stocks clothes by other independent designers.
C/Verdi 20 bis
Zucca
One of three branches in Barcelona, Zucca offers a superb range of colourful fashion accessories. The stock includes plastic flowers for your hair and stick-on navel rings.
C/Torrent de l’Olla 175
Most of Gràcia’s small boutiques accept commissions.
Cafè del Sol
This café-bar is a cut above the others in the lively, bohemian Plaça del Sol. The atmosphere buzzes, the conversation inspires and the excellent coffee keeps on coming.
Pl del Sol 16
DA
Cafè Salambó
Scrumptious sandwiches and a tasty range of salads are the draw at this beautiful, wooden, trendy bar-cum-café. There are pool tables upstairs.
C/Torrijos 51
Tetería Jazmín
An aromatic café that serves hundreds of different teas; the most unusual is the mint tea served with pine-kernels. Typical Morrocan dishes (tagines and couscous) are also available.
C/Maspons 11
Closed Mon, Tue, two weeks Sep
La Cafetera
Of all the cafés on Plaça de la Virreina, this one, with its outdoor terrace and tiny patio full of potted plants, is easily the most pleasant for a quiet and leisurely morning coffee and a sandwich.
Pl de la Virreina
Aroma
It’s always a pleasure to smell the coffee being freshly ground at this cream-walled and wood-beamed café. Hundreds of coffees to choose from, with takeaway packets available.
Travessera de Gràcia 151
Vreneli
The cosy Plaça de Rius i Taulet boasts four café terraces to choose from. Vreneli is the most interesting one, with a mixture of Mexican, Swiss and Spanish fare. No alcohol is served.
Pl Rius i Taulet 8
Closed Mon
Blues Cafè
The walls at this dusky, atmospheric café-bar are plastered with black-and-white photos of John Lee Hooker and Leadbelly, among others. The music, electric or acoustic, is always the blues.
C/Perla 35
Cafè del Teatre
This is an ideal place to find a young, friendly crowd and good conversation. The only connection with the theatre here seems to be the velvet curtains on the sign over the door of this scruffy, but busy, café.
C/Torrijos 41
Cafè de Gràcia
This airy and spacious café, with salmon walls and mirrors, is an ideal spot for a quick coffee away from the crowds. Service is speedy and a touch more formal than most places in Gràcia.
C/Gran de Gràcia 34
Sureny
A sophisticated addition to this square, Sureny is simple but stylish, with a tantalizing selection of tapas and plenty of wines available by the glass.
Pl Revolució 17
