From Narrow Byways to the Sea
Morning
From the Haymarket “T”. follow Hanover Street to Richmond Street and continue to North Square. Stop at
Paul Revere House
for a glimpse of the domestic life
of the revolutionary hero. Return to Hanover for an espresso and some
prime people-watching at lively
Caffè Vittoria
. Continue up Hanover and turn left through Paul Revere Mall to
Old North Church
. The bust of George Washington inside
is reputedly the world’s most accurate rendering of his distinctive
face – compare the resemblance to a dollar bill. Then stroll up Hull
Street past
Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
for a great vantage point of USS Constitution before continuing to the waterfront. Grab a bench in Puopolo Park to watch a match of bocce, an Italian lawn bowling game. Walk south along Commercial Street and stop for an al fresco waterside lunch at Joe’s American Bar & Grill (100 Atlantic Ave).
Afternoon
Resume your waterfront stroll, stopping off to enjoy the roses in the Rose Kennedy Rose Garden before whiling away an hour or so in the
New England Aquarium
where highlights include the
swirling Giant Ocean Tank. Then relax with a sun-downer and watch the
harbor activities from the patio of the Boston Harbor Hotel (70 Rowes Wharf) before head to
Sel de la Terre
for a Provençal dinner.
Italian Bakeries & Grocers
Mike’s Pastry
Large
glass cases display a huge selection of cookies and cannoli (crunchy
pastry filled with a sweet ricotta cream). Purchase a box to go, or grab
a table and order a drink and a delectable pastry.
Salumeria Italiana
This
neighborhood fixture is a premier stop for esoteric Italian canned
goods and rich olive oils, as well as spicy sausages and cheeses from
many Italian regions.
151 Richmond St
Closed Sun
No DA
Modern Pastry
House
specialties here include rich ricotta pie and nougat made on the
premises, as well as chocolate truffles from Italy and delicate
Florentines. Modern makes a thinner cannoli shell than Mike’s.
Polcari’s Coffee Co.
The
premier bulk grocer in the North End, this charming store has sold
Italian roasted coffee since 1932. It’s still the best place to find
spices, flours, grains, and legumes.
105 Salem St
Closed Sun
No DA
Polcari’s Coffee Co.
Bova’s Bakery
Fresh
bread emerges from the ovens at all hours. When the bars and coffee
shops close, night owls head to Bova’s for hot sandwiches and cookies.
V. Cirace Wine & Spirits
The
North End’s most upscale seller of Italian wines and liqueurs stocks
both fine wines to lay down and cheerfully youthful ones to enjoy right
away.
173 North St
Closed Sun
No DA
Monica’s Mercato
Linked to a nearby restaurant, this salumeria
has the usual cheeses and sausages, but its specialties are prepared
foods such as cold salads for picnics and pasta dishes for reheating.
Monica’s Mercato
Martignetti Liquors
One
of the city’s most comprehensive wine and liquor stores, Martignetti
imports wines from many small producers in Italy, Spain, and Portugal.
The store is particularly known for its broad selection of
Nebbiolo-based wines of the Piemonte.
Fresh Cheese
This shop serves fresh ricotta and mozzarella with rare, imported Italian cheeses.
Napoli Pastry
Other
bakeries aim for variety, but Napoli sticks to a narrow but select line
of perfectly fashioned sweets. As the name suggests, it should be a
dessert lover’s first stop for a Neapolitan.
Unless otherwise specified, all bakeries and grocers are open daily
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Restaurants & Bars
Maurizio’s
A
cozy, buzzy spot where chef Maurizio Lodo draws on his Sardinian
heritage to create dishes that often include brilliant preparations of
fish.
364 Hanover St
617 367 1123
Closed Mon
No DA
Maurizio’s
Taranta
An artistic blend of Sardinian and Catalan cuisine spells intense flavors (pork with vinegar peppers and broccoli).
210 Hanover St
617 720 0052
Closed lunch Sun
No DA
Daily Catch
Fans of garlic and calamari dishes line up on the sidewalk for the tiny tables at one of the area’s friendliest restaurants.
La Brace
Don’t let the modest decor deter you. Chef Mark Fredette creates superb North Italian dishes, such as veal chop with gnocchi.
76 Salem St
617 523 8820
Closed lunch
Pizzeria Regina
The original Regina’s thin crust, old-fashioned pizza is far better than the pale imitations served at its other branches.
Bricco
This lively, stylish trattoría is a very popular spot for socializing over Abruzzo-style pastas or rabbit casserole.
241 Hanover St
617 248 6800
Neptune Oyster
The
delicate raw bar oysters are almost upstaged by large and bold roasted
fish and pasta dishes in this tiny, stylish spot. Tables turn over
quickly.
Ristorante Fiore
Traditional
southern Italian cuisine with a strong Italian-American accent has made
this a popular dining spot, especially with its outdoor rooftop
terrace.
250 Hanover St
617 371 1176
Closed lunch Sun
Sel de la Terre
Sunny tastes of Provence – down to homemade tapenade and hearth breads – make this a must for gourmets at lunch and dinner.
Prezza
One
of the longest wine lists in town guarantees just the right glass to
accompany hearty Tuscan fare as well as sinfully rich desserts.
24 Fleet St
617 227 1577
Closed Sun