A Morning Out
Early Morning
Catch the
Star Ferry
to TST. As you come in, check out the
vast West Kowloon Reclamation to the left. If the Mass Transit Railway
Corporation has its way, a vast tower that will vie for world’s tallest
building honours will stand here within four or five years.
If you’re still standing after the stampede to disembark (be wary of pyjama-clad old ladies), saunter past the old clocktower, pause to take in one of the world’s most breathtaking views, then cross Salisbury Road and stop for tea at the Peninsula Hotel.
From here, brave the crush and bustle of the
Golden Mile
. Unless you want a new suit or dress, do
not make eye contact with the legion of touts who have never heard the
word “no”. Walk straight by. They are merciless if they sense weakness.
Brunch
When you’ve had enough of the smog-shrouded streets, hawkers and being jostled, cross Haiphong Road into Kowloon Park. There is plenty of space here to pause and do some serious people-watching.
You’ll probably be
getting peckish by now. Head back down Nathan Road to Joyce Café, for
reasonably-priced vegetarian fare and an earful of tai-tais
(wealthy housewives) comparing the morning’s purchases. The espressos
and capuccinos are first-rate; the vegetable lasagna delicious.
Spots to People-Watch
The Avenue
Ask
for a table near the street, preferably under the glass-roofed section
of the restaurant. Floor-to-ceiling plate glass windows provide the
perfect vantage point to look down on Nathan Road’s passing parade.
(Imaginative fusion food, too.)
Chungking Mansions
Hours
of harmless fun to be had watching the endless stream of freaks, geeks
and desperados being accosted by a legion of touts.
Chungking Mansions
Mirador Mansions
Not as famous as its above-mentioned neighbour, but entertaining nonetheless. More weirdos. More confused backpackers.
Kowloon Park
Best
spot is on the benches near the fountain in the centre of the park. In
summer, there is a constant and colourful procession along the path .
Kowloon Park
Felix
If the wallet won’t stand up to a meal, just drink in the bar and watch everyone watching everyone else (see Felix).
Harbour City
A
people-watcher’s paradise. Massive labyrinth of interconnected malls
with plenty of cafés and benches to park upon and soak up the orgy of
conspicuous consumption (see Harbour City).
Waterfront Promenade
Walking
east from the Star Ferry, between the museums and five-star hotels, you
will meet Tai Chi adepts, culture vultures and local ladies with their
tiny dogs, all taking the sea air.
The Langham Hotel
Understated
and elegant, the Langham attracts clientele of the same ilk, such as
screen star Michelle Yeoh, perhaps on her way to T’ang Court.
The Langham Hotel
Häagen-Dazs
A
frosty oasis when the mercury soars, with a glass bar and stools to
perch upon while you gaze out at the hot and harried shoppers elbowing
each other along the Golden Mile.
Chaser’s Pub
Primo people-watching along groovy Knutsford Terrace, one of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets.
