We discover sports and spas on the
Portuguese island in the middle of the Atlantic.
I’d heard that Madeira was a great walking
holiday if you were of a certain age, so I’d always earmarked it for my
retirement years. How wrong I’ve been! In fact, the Portuguese island is one of
the most youthful, beautiful and tropical places I’ve visited for a wellbeing
escape in Europe. Approximately 300 miles north of Spain’s Canary Islands, off
the west coast of Africa, Madeira boasts year-round sunshine, mountainous
terrain and lush forest rather than beaches.
We spent our first night at The Vine Hotel,
a quirky boutique hotel in Madeira’s capital Funchal. My spacious suite
featured a raised bath platform, with ultra-hi-tech gadgetry that wouldn’t have
been out of place in a sci-fi movie.
The hotel’s Vine Spa was tiny but elegant
with a small wet spa area and good massage therapists. The hotel’s USP as its
achingly cool L-shaped rooftop infinity pool, 360º Sky bar and Uva restaurant
at the foot of the majestic Funchal Castle.
Next morning, we enjoyed an outdoor yoga
class in a spiritual spot above us was the mystical and soulful Christ the
Redeemer monument, a smaller version of the famous original at Rio de Janeiro.
We then took a guided “Mountain Expedition” jeep safari to the hilly north-east
of Madeira by Porto de Cruz and trekked for 6kms along the “Levada do
Castelejo” waterways that irrigate the island. There are 1,400kms of waterways
to walk along. We passed lunch fields, indigenous flowers hidden waterfalls and
ponds, even a rural farmer wearing a quirky hat and toothless grin. I was
surprised by the diverse beauty of the Madeiran countryside – one moment I was
reminded of Indonesia, the next of Provence.
Pampering perfection
SPA in Funchal would have been reason alone
to visit Madeira. Its vast wet area and thalassotherapy pool houses a series of
muscle-pummeling jets on a state-of-the-art timer system. I felt a zillion
dollars when I emerged and the ocean views from the hotel are simply
breathtaking.
That night we checked in to the famously
old-fashioned Reid’s Palace Hotel in Funchal. I remember my grandmother telling
me about her visit to this historic hotel in the days when cruise ships would
dock so guests could attend afternoon tea on its ocean-view terrace and
ballroom dances. This five-star hotel has peaceful sub-tropical gardens, rocky
nooks in which to sunbathe and two seawater pools and a freshwater pool – all
on the waterfront. I had an Aromatherapy Associates facial in the bijoux Reid
Palace Spa, where treatment rooms have their own private balcony overlooking
the crashing ocean.
The
swimming pools at Reid’s Palace Hotel overlook the crashing ocean
Sporting thrills and ways to chill
For a meditative spot, you can’t top the
“Pico do Areeiro” viewpoint at sunset. If you’re lucky with the weather, the
sun’s dusky rays poke through the clouds and mountain top. It’s a mind-blowing
sight. Adrenaline junkies may prefer canyoning in the mountains, paragliding or
hang-gliding over the island, windsurfing, jet-skiing or kite-surfing. Or the
unusual thrills and spills of the Monte toboggan ride down the hilly streets
above Funchal (accessible by cable car or on foot). Each chariot seats two to
three passengers, and is flanked by two Venetian gondola-style attendants, who
are adept at racing alongside as your basket hurtles down the hill! It’s safer
than it sounds… A gentler thrill was a catamaran trip to watch dolphins. It was
a truly soulful experience to see these beautiful creatures leaping up right
beside our boat. Whale-watching is also possible, depending on the time of
year. I was sorry not to have visited Madeira’s first Ayurvedic Healing Centre
at the Hotel Alpino Atlantico. Also on my list next time are the sandy beaches of
Porto Santo island (once home to Christopher Columbus) whose Geomedecine Centre
offers a unique treatment that involves being “buried” in mineral-rich sand for
an half an hour – said to be great for bone and muscular problems. Magical
Madeira is not to be missed for eco- and natural lovers seeking quality
R&R and unique adventures.
Take
a cruise on board a catamaran to see whales and dolphins
Travel essentials
Getting there: Annabelle flew courtesy of TAP Portugal, which flies daily from
Heathrow to Funchal. Prices start at $212 return including taxes, flytap.com or
call 0845 601 0932 for more info.
Hotels and spas: hotelthevine.com, reidspalace.com, cs-madeira.com.
