Alexanderplatz
A little bit off the beaten track, in Prati, but the best jazz club in Rome bar none – Winton Marsalis, Lionel Hampton, George Coleman and many other international jazz stars have played here .
Via Ostia 9
Big Mama
Rome’s real house of blues, where the big names book and the smaller acts gig. Only open for live performances .
Vicolo S Francesco a Ripa 18
Stairs Club
A trendy bar with large, comfy sofas on the lower level. Cocktails and bar snacks are available every evening and live accoustic jazz combos are performed once a week.
Via della Scala 43
Saxophone Pub
This warm, cosy pub, close to the Vatican, serves simple pub fare including salads and sandwiches. There is always a friendly atmosphere, with jazz and blues on the stereo and local bands that come here to jam.
Via Germanico 26
Four Green Fields
Upstairs there is a vaguely British-style pub, while in the basement live music is played nightly.
Via C Morin 42
Fonclea
Established in 1977, this historic music venue is located close to Piazza del Risorgimento and features a variety of live music including jazz, soul, funk and rock. Punters can either drink at the bar or eat in the buffet restaurant.
Via Crescenzio 82
Birreria Trilussa
Beer and simple dishes are served until the early hours, with live music some nights. Cosy, traditional atmosphere.
Via Benedetta 18–20
The Place
There’s always live music on the main stage, be it jazz or soulful singer-songwriters.
Via Alberico II 29
Caffè della Scala
A relaxed bar serving powerful cocktails and a great grappa selection. Live music is also on offer from time to time.
Via della Scala 4
Lettere Café
The focus is on books, but a couple of nights a week are devoted to live roots music.
Via S. Francesco a Ripa 100
Da Augusto
Die-hard Trastevere osteria complete with wooden tables and traditional menu.
Piazza de’ Renzi 15
06 580 3798
No credit cards
Osteria Pucci
This restaurant serves a good selection of Roman specialties and traditional Italian fare. The outdoor terrace is open most of the year.
Piazza Mastai 1–4
06 581 9870
La Tana dei Noantri
Lengthy menu promising all the best of Roman cuisine, including penne arrabbiata (pasta in a spicy tomato sauce). There are a few tables in the piazza against the church in summer.
Via della Paglia 1–3, off Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
06 580 6404
Closed Tue
Pizzeria Da Ivo
A lively football theme and ever-present crowds are the features of Rome’s favourite pizzeria .
Via S Francesco a Ripa 158
06 581 7082
Closed L, Tue
Insalata Ricca
Part of a popular chain of restaurants serving huge salads, pizzas and other light dishes.
Piazza del Risorgimento 5–6
06 3973 0387
€
Pizzeria Dar Poeta
Innovative pizza is served here – Roman-style, but with a thick crust .
Vicolo del Bologna 45–6
06 588 0516
Closed L
Osteria dell’Angelo
Angelo prepares excellent traditional Roman cooking at equally admirable prices. Book ahead.
Via G Bettolo 24
06 372 9470
Closed L (except Tue & Fri), Sun
Pizzeria Da Vittorio
Good Neapolitan-style pizza, antipasti, and a fan-cooled interior plastered with photos of famous patrons make this one of Rome’s best pizzerias .
Via S Cosimato 14A
06 580 0353
Da Giovanni
A tiny trattoria that serves good, filling, traditional Roman fare at very low prices.
Via della Lungara 41A
06 686 1514
Closed Sun
Napul’è
Campanian cuisine and more than 40 types of pizza approved by Naples’ strict “True Pizza” association. Live Neapolitan music is played most nights.
Viale Giulio Cesare 89–91
06 323 1005
Sabatini
Roman cuisine and seafood in an old Fellini hang-out. Book ahead for a table out on the main square .
Piazza S Maria in Trastevere 13
06 581 2026
Ferrara
Deservedly trendy; decoration is minimalist, with patio seating and the creative menu is based around the remarkable wine selection.
Via del Moro 1a
06 5833 3920
Sora Lella
Low wood-beam ceilings and classic Roman cooking define this restaurant on Tiber Island (sadly, no river views). The food is delicious but the portions are small by Italian standards.
Via Ponte Quattro Capi 16
06 686 1601
Les Etoiles
Not only do you come here for the cuisine, but also for the al fresco dining and wonderful panoramas of St Peter’s Basilica.
Via Vitelleschi 34, Hotel Atlante Star
06 689 3434
Antico Arco
Trendy, pan-Italian, creative eatery in a lovely setting on Gianicolo hill.
Piazzale Aurelio 7
06 581 5274
Closed Mon–Sat L, all day Sun
Il Ciak
Excellent game dishes are among the offerings served in this typical Tuscan trattoria.
Vicolo del Cinque 21
06 589 4774
Closed L, Mon
Alberto Ciarla
Rome’s premier seafood restaurant. There’s also a well-stocked wine cellar .
Piazza di S Cosimato 40
06 581 8668
Closed L, Sun
Il Matriciano
Businessmen and Cinecittà film directors patronize this Prati restaurant named after the spicy bacon-and-tomato pasta sauce. Try to sit outside in summer.
Via dei Gracchi 55
06 321 3040
Closed Wed
La Pergola
Incredible vistas of the city and food by a top international chef – one of Rome’s best dining experiences.
Via Cadlolo 101
06 3509 2211
Closed Sun–Mon
Taberna de’ Gracchi
Dante Mililli’s dining rooms may be large and modern, but the spirit is old-school Roman dining with a few contemporary touches.
Via dei Gracchi 266–8
06 321 3126
