Exploring Rome’s Early Churches
Morning
Start with
San Clemente
, with its fascinating layers. At the lowest level use a torch
(flashlight) to appreciate the beautiful fresco of the head of a
bearded man.
Walk one block over to the
Via dei Santi Quattro Coronati
to glimpse the produce market; turn left and walk up the hill
to Santi Quattro Coronati, a rich and little visited 4th-century church
with remarkable frescoes in the chapel (1246). Continue on until you
reach
San Giovanni in Laterano
. The cloisters with gorgeously twisted columns and mosaic inlays will make your visit truly memorable.
For an equally memorable lunch, head to
Cannavota
.
Afternoon
After lunch, it’s time for another of the great basilicas,
Santa Maria Maggiore
. Check out the ancient column in front and inside use
binoculars to examine the 5th-century mosaics lining the upper reaches
of the nave. Finally, cut over to Santa Prassede,
where you can take in some of Rome’s most radiant Byzantine mosaics and
a powerful painting of the Flagellation in the sacristy.
For sustenance after your spiritual journey,
continue down the hill, past Santa Maria Maggiore’s grand staircase and
enjoy a drink at
L’Angolo di Napoli
, or stay for a dinner of Neapolitan-style pizza.
Clothing and Discount Shops
Via Sannio Market
The
market is a good bet for new leather jackets at great savings.
Otherwise there is a lot of quite junky fakes, good-condition
second-hand clothing, and other miscellaneous items .
Via Sannio Market
Via Mamiani Market
Exotic
foodstuffs, spices, flowers, clothing, luggage – you can find all that
and more around this huge market square. Under the porticoes there are
even more stalls to check out .
Oviesse
Fairly
well-made clothing at bargain prices, plus a large selection of
cosmetics and toiletries. This is the largest of several branches of
Oviesse in Rome.
Coin
A
fashionable department store, with reasonable prices. It’s mostly
clothing, shoes and accessories, but they also carry kitchenware and
more general furnishings.
MAS
MAS stands for “Magazzini allo Statuto”
(“Statutory Warehouses”). Shopping here is like one vast rummage sale.
There’s tons of merchandise piled up in bins, but the prices are
ludicrously low and the staff are friendly and helpful.
Barrita Boutique
The
lovely, hand-made leather shoes are good value for money. Stock
includes boots, shoes and leather bags. A boot-stretching service is
also available.
UPIM
A mid- to low-range department store that carries clothing, toiletries and practical items for the home.
Leam
An extremely trendy clothing emporium with a factory outlet on the top floor selling Prada and D&G.
Exotic Foods
One of the few places in the city where you can find Chinese, Thai and Indian spices and cooking pastes.
International Trade Corp
One of many Chinese shops in Rome’s Chinatown. This one specializes in women’s wear.
Places to Eat
Agata e Romeo
The eponymous couple divide the labour expertly, she as chef and he as maître d’. Try the menu degustazione for a sampling of each day’s masterworks. Reservations a must .
Baia Chia
Cuisine from Sardinia, which adds up to lots of fish and lots of flavour.
Via Machiavelli 5
06 7045 3452
Closed Sun
DA
Cannavota
A traditional neighbourhood restaurant. Try risotto alla pescatore (seafood risotto).
Trattoria Monti
This friendly, intimate restaurant serves creative dishes from the Marche region. The tagliatelle con ragù is excellent, and the house Verdicchio wine is above average. Booking in advance is advised.
Via di San Vito 13A
06 446 6573
Closed Mon, Sun D, Aug
F.I.S.H.
Seafood and fusion cuisine served by a bilingual staff.
Via dei Serpent 16
06 478 24 962
Closed Aug, Mon L
Little India
Rome’s best value Indian restaurant, is set in two attractive medieval rooms. Tandoori cooking is a speciality.
Monti D.O.C.
This cosy wine bar has a full menu of hearty Tuscan soups, cous cous, tuna steaks and, for dessert, delicious carrot cake.
Via G Lanza 93
06 487 2696
Enoteca Cavour 313
A
clubby old wine bar. Bottles from around the world to choose from, as
well as a decent menu of salads, pastas, sandwiches and more.
Via Cavour 313
06 678 5496
Closed Jul–Sep: Sun
L’Angolo di Napoli
Head here for lunch in this light and airy establishment with cafeteria-style service. Great hot or cold buffet selections.
Il Guru
Elegant Indian restaurant, a cut above the rest. The food is superbly prepared in north-Indian style.
Via Cimarra 4/6
06 474 4110
Closed L
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Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals |
