Rome - Around Town : The Esquiline and Lateran (part 2) - Clothing and Discount Shops, Places to Eat

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Exploring Rome’s Early Churches


Start with San Clemente , with its fascinating layers. At the lowest level use a torch (flashlight) to appreciate the beautiful fresco of the head of a bearded man.

Walk one block over to the Via dei Santi Quattro Coronati to glimpse the produce market; turn left and walk up the hill to Santi Quattro Coronati, a rich and little visited 4th-century church with remarkable frescoes in the chapel (1246). Continue on until you reach San Giovanni in Laterano . The cloisters with gorgeously twisted columns and mosaic inlays will make your visit truly memorable.

For an equally memorable lunch, head to Cannavota .


After lunch, it’s time for another of the great basilicas, Santa Maria Maggiore . Check out the ancient column in front and inside use binoculars to examine the 5th-century mosaics lining the upper reaches of the nave. Finally, cut over to Santa Prassede, where you can take in some of Rome’s most radiant Byzantine mosaics and a powerful painting of the Flagellation in the sacristy.

For sustenance after your spiritual journey, continue down the hill, past Santa Maria Maggiore’s grand staircase and enjoy a drink at L’Angolo di Napoli , or stay for a dinner of Neapolitan-style pizza.

Clothing and Discount Shops

  1. Via Sannio Market

    The market is a good bet for new leather jackets at great savings. Otherwise there is a lot of quite junky fakes, good-condition second-hand clothing, and other miscellaneous items .

    Via Sannio Market
  2. Via Mamiani Market

    Exotic foodstuffs, spices, flowers, clothing, luggage – you can find all that and more around this huge market square. Under the porticoes there are even more stalls to check out .

  3. Oviesse

    Fairly well-made clothing at bargain prices, plus a large selection of cosmetics and toiletries. This is the largest of several branches of Oviesse in Rome.

    • Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 108–10

  4. Coin

    A fashionable department store, with reasonable prices. It’s mostly clothing, shoes and accessories, but they also carry kitchenware and more general furnishings.

    • Piazza Appio 7

  5. MAS

    MAS stands for “Magazzini allo Statuto” (“Statutory Warehouses”). Shopping here is like one vast rummage sale. There’s tons of merchandise piled up in bins, but the prices are ludicrously low and the staff are friendly and helpful.

    • Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 138

  6. Barrita Boutique

    The lovely, hand-made leather shoes are good value for money. Stock includes boots, shoes and leather bags. A boot-stretching service is also available.

    • Via Appia Nuova 41

  7. UPIM

    A mid- to low-range department store that carries clothing, toiletries and practical items for the home.

    • Via Gioberti 74

  8. Leam

    An extremely trendy clothing emporium with a factory outlet on the top floor selling Prada and D&G.

    • Via Appia Nuova 26

  9. Exotic Foods

    One of the few places in the city where you can find Chinese, Thai and Indian spices and cooking pastes.

    • Via Napoleone III 95

  10. International Trade Corp

    One of many Chinese shops in Rome’s Chinatown. This one specializes in women’s wear.

    • Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 61/A

Places to Eat

  1. Agata e Romeo

    The eponymous couple divide the labour expertly, she as chef and he as maître d’. Try the menu degustazione for a sampling of each day’s masterworks. Reservations a must .

    • Via Carlo Alberto 45

    • 06 446 6115

    • Closed Sat–Sun, 2 weeks Jan & Aug

    • DA

  2. Baia Chia

    Cuisine from Sardinia, which adds up to lots of fish and lots of flavour.

    • Via Machiavelli 5

    • 06 7045 3452

    • Closed Sun

    • DA

  3. Cannavota

    A traditional neighbourhood restaurant. Try risotto alla pescatore (seafood risotto).

    • Piazza S Giovanni in Laterano 20

    • 06 7720 5007

    • Closed Wed, Aug

    • DA

  4. Trattoria Monti

    This friendly, intimate restaurant serves creative dishes from the Marche region. The tagliatelle con ragù is excellent, and the house Verdicchio wine is above average. Booking in advance is advised.

    • Via di San Vito 13A

    • 06 446 6573

    • Closed Mon, Sun D, Aug

  5. F.I.S.H.

    Seafood and fusion cuisine served by a bilingual staff.

    • Via dei Serpent 16

    • 06 478 24 962

    • Closed Aug, Mon L

  6. Little India

    Rome’s best value Indian restaurant, is set in two attractive medieval rooms. Tandoori cooking is a speciality.

    • Via Principe Amedeo 303–05

    • 06 446 4980

  7. Monti D.O.C.

    This cosy wine bar has a full menu of hearty Tuscan soups, cous cous, tuna steaks and, for dessert, delicious carrot cake.

    • Via G Lanza 93

    • 06 487 2696

  8. Enoteca Cavour 313

    A clubby old wine bar. Bottles from around the world to choose from, as well as a decent menu of salads, pastas, sandwiches and more.

    • Via Cavour 313

    • 06 678 5496

    • Closed Jul–Sep: Sun

  9. L’Angolo di Napoli

    Head here for lunch in this light and airy establishment with cafeteria-style service. Great hot or cold buffet selections.

    • Via Agostino Depretis 77A

    • 06 474 6866

    • Closed Sun L

  10. Il Guru

    Elegant Indian restaurant, a cut above the rest. The food is superbly prepared in north-Indian style.

    • Via Cimarra 4/6

    • 06 474 4110

    • Closed L

Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

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