Pop into the decrepit chess bar El Pato Loco (cnr Diputació & Aribau) to get a sepia picture of Barcelona that hasn’t changed for a century. Wake up with a cafè solo and watch the old men playing speed-chess, then stroll around the gardens of the Universitat Head east along Gran Via past the elegant Palace Barcelona Hotel and right down C/Bruc for your first real taste of Catalan Art Nouveau, with Gaudí’s Casa Calvet on C/Casp. Turn right onto C/Casp and walk three blocks west to the majestic Pg de Gràcia; then go right again three blocks to the impressive buildings known as the Mansana de la Discòrdia and the Perfume Museum . Sniff around Regia perfume shop before continuing north to marvel at Gaudí’s La Pedrera . Feeling peckish? Stop at Tragaluz on Ptge de la Concepció. The set menu is an enjoyable way to experience this glitterati hang-out.
After lunch, head north on Pg de Gràcia, turn right along Diagonal, taking in the fairy-tale Casa de les Punxes at No. 416. Walk along Diagonal, making a detour left at Pg Sant Joan to see Palau Macaya at No. 108. Then stroll along C/Mallorca to the Sagrada Família . Here you can take in the Nativity Façade and rest weary legs in the Plaça de Gaudí before climbing the bell towers for a breathtaking view of the city.
Vinçon
The cream of the crop in Spanish design with out-of-this-world designs for the most everyday objects. Furniture is displayed in a 1900 upper-class apartment. Breathtaking.
Pg de Gràcia 96
L’Appartement
A spacious, white-painted store packed with gorgeous furnishings and knick-knacks at reasonable prices: from quirky, cool lights and sculptures to bags, jewellery and t-shirts.
C/Enric Granados 44
Closed Sun, Mon
Regia
The biggest perfume shop in the city has over one thousand scents, including all the leading brands and other surprises. Also home to the Perfume Museum.
Pg de Gràcia 39
Dos i Una
A designer gift shop with a steel-tiled floor and a psychedelic colour scheme. Concentrates on selling “made in Barcelona” items, which make for unusual souvenirs.
C/Roselló 275
Muxart
Excellent and arty shoe shop for men, women and kids in a country famed for its leather.
C/Roselló 230
Biosca & Botey
Exceptionally elegant shop selling all kinds of lamps, from Art-Nouveau mushrooms to ultra-modern steel shades.
Rambla de Catalunya 125
DA
Pilma
Breathtaking designer shop selling quality modern furniture and interior accessories by big names, as well as cutting-edge creations by Catalan designers.
Av Diagonal 403
DBarcelona
An eclectic range of gadgets and gifts in a shop that doubles as an exhibition space for up-and-coming designers and more established artists.
Av Diagonal 367
Kowasa
A specialist photography bookshop with over 7,000 titles, including foreign magazines. The ambience is friendly and intimate and browsing is encouraged.
C/Mallorca 235
Sadur
The owner designs and sells her own leather accessories: wallets, bags and a few gifts. Classy designs are well made and well priced.
C/Bruc 150
La Fira
Decked out in vintage fairground memorabilia, this striking bar rates high on novelty factor. Order a cuba libre while swaying in a swing. Lively atmosphere, unique setting.
C/Provença 171
Closed Mon
Adm
Lika Lounge
This New York-style cocktail bar boasts an ice bar and the best martinis in town. One of the city’s hippest nightspots, it hosts DJ sessions with a different theme each night.
Passatge de Domingo 3
Dry Martini
A classic and elegant venue where extraordinarily professional barmen are ready to prepare your favourite cocktail. Quiet jazz sounds play in the background.
C/Aribau 162
Omm Sessions Club
Located in possibly the most fashionable address in town, the OmmSessions Club attracts a young, international crowd.
C/Rosselló 265
Velvet
Large, popular and populist disco bar with lavish decor, luxury fittings and music ranging from Elvis to Abba.
C/Balmes 161
Luz de Gas
A classic late-night watering hole, this half concert hall, half bar has live music nightly – from blues to jazz and soul.
C/Muntaner 246
Ideal
Luxurious cocktail lounge opened by legendary barman José María Gotarda in the 1950s and now run by his son. More than 80 varieties of whisky.
C/Aribau 89
Closed Sun
City Hall
This popular club has two dance floors. Club nights cover a range of music styles, from electro pop to drum ’n’ bass.
Rambla de Catalunya 2-4
Dietrich Gay Teatro Café
A trendy gay club with a mixed door policy and a beautiful internal garden. It plays house and garage, and holds shows by singers, trapeze artists and acrobats.
Consell de Cent 255
Les Gens que j’Aime
The ideal place to have a drink while enjoying soft music, after walking around Paseo de Gràcia and Rambla Catalunya.
Valencia 286
Open 6pm–2:30am daily (3am weekends)