Laie Llibreria Cafè
A cultural meeting place with a lively atmosphere, airy terrace and foreign newspapers. There’s an excellent set lunch and live jazz (on Thursdays).
C/Pau Claris 85
Closed Sun & Mon eve
Cafè del Centre
Said to be the oldest café in the Eixample, with dark wooden interiors that have not changed for a century. An unpretentious spot for a quiet coffee.
C/Girona 69
Closed after 9pm
Casa Alfonso
This classy café has been in business since 1929. Arguably the best pernil (serrano ham) in the city.
C/Roger de Llúria 6
Closed Sun
Cacao Sampaka
An infinite array of chocolate, including innovative combinations such as chocolate with Parmesan cheese or olive oil.
C/Consell de Cent 292
Closed Sun, mornings in Aug
Mauri
One of the best pastry shops in town. Enjoy a hot drink with an elaborate dessert in Modernista surroundings.
Rambla Catalunya 102
Closed Sun eve
Bar París
Chaotic and lively, with a sunny terrace, Bar París attracts a student crowd. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, it’s ideal for clubbers not ready to go home.
C/Paris 187
Palace Barcelona
This elegant Modernista hotel formerly the Ritz, is the perfect place for breakfast in the conservatory or afternoon tea in the Grand Hall. It’s thoroughly luxurious, but pricey.
Gran Via de les Cortes Catalanes 668
DA
Bauma
A mixed crowd drifts in to read the paper or smoke a Havana cigar with a post-lunch carajillo (coffee and cognac).
C/Roger de Llúria 124
Closed Sat
Mantequería Ravell
A deli-style shop offering incredible breakfasts, including eggs with foie gras, at a huge communal table. Wine and traditional hams and cheeses are also available.
C/Aragó 313
Closed Mon & Sat after 6pm, Tue & Wed after 9pm, Sun
Tragarrapid
A chic café below the Tragaluz restaurant. Up-market tapas and coffee served with style.
Ptge de la Concepció 5
Tragaluz
Popular with the fashionable crowd, this design-conscious, three-floored restaurant serves imaginative Mediterranean cuisine.
93 487 01 96
La Semproniana
Set in an old printworks, this place serves food that’s a cross between Catalan and nouvelle cuisine – with a sense of playfulness. Try the black pudding lasagne.
C/Rosselló 148
93 453 18 20
Cinc Sentits
Indulge the five senses (cinc sentits in Catalan) at this stylish restaurant, where diners are wowed with modern interpretations of classic Catalan cuisine.
C/Aribau 53
93 323 94 90
Closed Mon eve, Sun
L’Olivé
An unassuming, family-style restaurant with excellent, well-priced regional cuisine. Reputedly the best place to eat that Catalan speciality, pig’s trotter. The broad bean salad with mint is recommended.
C/Balmes 47
93 452 19 90
Noti
Apart from the superb French-Mediterranean cuisine and stylish decor, Noti also has an adjoining cocktail bar.
C/Roger de Lluria 35–37
93 342 66 73
Closed Sat lunch, Sun
Casa Calvet
Splurge on Catalan food with a modern twist in these impressive Gaudí-designed dining rooms.
C/Casp 48
93 412 40 12
Moo
Run by the Roca brothers, Moo serves creative Catalan recipes prepared with the finest local ingredients.
C/Rosselló 265
93 445 40 00
Inopia
Tucked away in a residential neighbourhood, Inopia serves traditional tapas.
C/Tamarit 104
93 424 52 31
Closed Tue–Fri lunch, Sun, Mon
Cervecería Catalana
Just a few steps from Rambla de Catalunya, with some of the best tapas in town and a variety of beers.
C/Mallorca 236
93 216 03 68
Paco Meralgo
This bright, modern tapas bar has a gourmet menu based on recipes from around the country.
C/Muntaner 171
93 430 90 27