Lobamba: the cultural heart
Lobamba is Swaziland's traditional seat of
power and located opposite the royal kraal at Ludzidzini. It is home to today's
parliament, the National Museum and the King Sobhuza Memorial Park - a tribute
to the late, revered monarch. Swaziland's two most impressive cultural
spectacles also take place in the surrounding fields: the Umhlanga (reed dance)
is a colourful celebration of chastity held in August/September, when thousands
of girls march to cut reeds that they present to the Queen Mother; the Incwala
(first fruits ceremony) is a celebration of kingship and harvest held in
December/January, its sacred rituals enacted in royal seclusion but with the
general festivities open to the public.
Umhlanga
Reed Dance, Swaziland.
Nsangwini rock art
Nsangwini cave shelter is Swaziland's
finest example of San rock art. Located in the wild Nkomati Valley, southeast
of Piggs Peak, this is a community-run project. A local guide will lead you
down the short, steep trail and interpret the ancient frescos preserved beneath
a hidden granite overhang. Some of the more outlandish figures were painted
under shamanic trance and represent hunters passing into the spirit world.
Nsangwini
rock art
Mahamba Gorge and Mission
Mahamba Mission, in the deep southwest of
Swaziland, is the country's oldest church and marks the point where Weslyan
missionaries first brought Christianity here in the 1880s. The nearby gorge is
impressive, and home to rare birds such as the black eagle and southern bald
ibis. A community-run project offers hiking trails and simple self-catering
chalets.
Mahamba
Gorge and Mission
Phophonyane Falls Nature Reserve
This gem of a reserve is tucked into
indigenous forest just north of Piggs Peak. The buildings and walkways are
ingeniously landscaped into lush, natural vegetation, and overlook the
Phophonyane River and Falls, which run through the property over a
river-sculpted rock bed of 3.5 billion-year-old greenstone. Water flows
everywhere. A network of self-guided trails offers excellent birding, with Narina
trogon and crowned eagle among the highlights.
Phophonyane
Falls Nature Reserve
Malandela's complex
Malandela's is a family farmstead near
Mahlanya, along the road to Malkerns. Once known simply as a good restaurant
and pub, it has since expanded into a significant tourist complex, with a
B&B, internet cafe and craft centre that includes the innovative Gone Rural
weaving enterprise. Best of all, it has House on Fire. This unique Gaudiesque
performing arts venue and exhibition centre is built around a Shakespearian
Globe-style theatre and every May hosts Bushfire, a three-day explosion of
southern African music and arts. Despite all this excitement, the place retains
its rustic charm and character.
Mlawula/Mbuluzi
These contiguous reserves in the shadow of
the Lubombo Mountains share the same habitat but are quite different in
character. Mlawula Nature Reserve is a large state-run reserve that extends to
the top of the Lubombos, from where you can see the Indian Ocean. The
adventurous, self-reliant visitor will find genuine wilderness and rich
wildlife here, but larger game is scarce and facilities neglected. Mbuluzi Game
Reserve next door is smaller but, under private ownership, better maintained.
Wildlife here includes plentiful giraffe, zebra and antelope, plus hippos and
trots on the Mbuluzi River and African fin foot among the prolific birdlife.
Hlane Royal National Park
This former royal hunting ground in the
northeastern low veld is now an impressive nature reserve. Its network of good
self-drive roads allows you to explore the dense bush veld in search of
giraffe, antelope, zebra and numerous smaller species, while white rhino,
elephant and hippo visit the waterhole right in front of Ndlovu Camp. To see
Swaziland's only lions - found in a separate fenced area - take a game drive
with a ranger. Guided walks are available and the bird life is notable for its
many raptors.
Hlane
Royal National Park
Mkhaya Game Reserve
This private, upmarket reserve offers
Swaziland's most exclusive safari experience. Among the big game reintroduced
to their former habitat here are elephant, buffalo, giraffe, hippo, white rhino
and rare black rhino. Guided game drives offer close-up viewing, and this is
one of Africa's best locations for tracking rhino - including black rhino - on
foot. There are no big cats, but spotted hyenas prowl the darkness. The smaller
wildlife includes a wealth of birds. Explore Stone Camp for treats such as suni
and pink-throated twin spot.
