Hong Kong - Around Kowloon : Kowloon – Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok and Prince Edward (part 2) - Funky Shops, Cheap and Chinese Eats

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Down the Peninsula

Early Morning

Take the MTR to Prince Edward to start at the top of the Kowloon Peninsula, near the old Chinese border at Boundary Street. Take Exit B2 and head to the Bird Garden via the flower shops and stalls on Flower Market Road . Testament to the Chinese love of exotic goldfish, the stalls at the top of Tung Choi Street sell a surprising variety of shapes and colours.

Cheap shops and market stalls abound a short walk away to the south on the streets below Argyle Street and east of Nathan Road. Pedestrians also abound - some 150,000 souls live in every square kilometre of this part of the Peninsula.

Crossing Nathan Road, head to the Jade Market for jewellery and figurines. If you want the best choice of jade, arrive before lunchtime because some of the stallholders pack up after this.

Early Afternoon

Take a breather in the small, pleasant square across the way and watch the world go by with the elderly locals, or peep inside the busy Tin Hau Temple . Then break for a rough and ready cheap Chinese lunch in the covered canteens on the corner of Pak Hoi and Temple streets.

After lunch explore the produce stalls along Reclamation Street and the old Chinese district around Shanghai Street.

Funky Shops

  1. King Wah Building

    Head to this uncrowded mall for funky street clothing, great accessories, handbags and cool watches. There’s genuine vintage denim and other 70s and 80s rarities, plus kitsch Japanese cartoon ephemera aplenty.

    • 628 Nathan Rd

  2. IT

    This smart, minimalist outlet stocks sleek Japanese and American street clothes and accessories.

    • 2/F, IN’s Square, 26 Sai Yeung Choi St

  3. Izzue

    Another good place for hepcats and urban warriors to find the right tops and dancing trousers for a night out.

    • 1/F, IN’s Square, 26 Sai Yeung Choi St

  4. Sony ProShops

    Head to the Sony Vaio, Walkman and Playstation Pro Shops for the latest audio and video gems among Sim City’s computer shops.

    • Sim City, Chung Kiu Commercial Building, 47–51 Shan Tung St

  5. Mongkok Computer Centre

    The deals on computer hardware and software are not as good as those in Sham Shui Po, but this is convenient for a huge selection of games and accessories.

    • 8A Nelson St

  6. Sasa Cosmetics

    Conveniently located outlet of an extensive Hong Kong chain selling cosmetics of every shade and type at very low prices.

    • G1–G5, G/F, Hollywood Plaza, 610 Nathan Rd

  7. Ban Fan Floriculture

    The porcelain and ceramic vases and wicker-work flower baskets are not likely to win awards for chic or design, but the choice is impressive and the prices are reasonable.

    • 28 Flower Market Rd

  8. Chan Chi Kee Cutlery

    Cheap, sturdy woks, steamers, choppers and pretty much everything else you might desire for the well-equipped kitchen.

    • 316–318 Shanghai St

    Chan Chi Kee Cutlery
  9. Sandy Chung

    Your one-stop shop in the jade market for pearls, beads and jewellery of all sorts. Go between 11am and 4pm.

    • Jade Market stall 413–414, Kansu St

  10. Fa Yuen Commercial Building

    Audio and videophiles will be in their element here, among the very latest insleek gadgets at competitive prices.

    • 75–77 Fa Yuen St

Cheap and Chinese Eats

  1. Tak Fook Heen

    Decent Cantonese food including good, cheap dim sum, but soft drinks are charged at hotel prices.

    • B/F, Stanford Hotel, 118 Soy St

    • 2710 4213

  2. Tai Ping Koon

    Hong Kong’s version of western food at a branch of a century-old chain. Try the “Swiss” (sweet) sauce chicken.

    • 19–21 Mau Lam St

    • 2384 3385

  3. Mui Chai Kee

    A great stop for a pot of tea and some fruit jellies and lotus paste buns. The adventurous might try the bird’s nest and egg tarts or double boiled frog’s oviduct with coconut milk.

    • G/F, 120 Parkes St

    • 2388 8468

    • No credit cards

  4. Peking Restaurant

    Peking duck is the speciality, or try Yangzhou fried rice with ham and peas at this gently ageing, charming restaurant.

    • F/F 227 Nathan Rd

    • 2735 1315

    • No credit cards

  5. Saint’s Alp Teahouse

    Quirky snacks and an intriguing menu of teas in a modern Taiwan-style Chinese teahouse, which is one of an extensive chain.

    • 61a Shantung St

    • 2782 1438

    • No credit cards

    Saint’s Alp Teahouse
  6. Ming Ya Fe

    Mainly Shanghainese, but also Sichuan and Cantonese specialities are served in this modern space at the top of the Langham Place mall.

    • 13/F, Langham Place, Shanghai St

    • 2782 2200

  7. Ah Long Pakistan Halal Food

    A good bet if you fancy a spicy curry, although the surroundings aren’t pretty.

    • G/F, Tak Lee Bldg, 95B Woosung St

    • 2782 1635

    • No credit cards

  8. Fairwood

    Part of a large Chinese fast-food chain, this branch has CD listening posts and some Internet terminals.

    • B/F, King Wah Centre, 620-628 Nathan Rd

    • 2302 1003

    • No credit cards

  9. The Lobby Lounge

    Deserves a mention for its glass atrium, outdoor seating, terrific coffee and afternoon tea menus.

    • 4/F, The Eaton Hotel, 380 Nathan Rd

    • 2710 1863

    The Lobby Lounge
  10. Light Vegetarian

    Familiar mock-meat dishes on the à la carte menu, but the real steal is the ample lunchtime buffet, which includes desserts and a pot of tea.

    • 13 Jordan Rd

    • 2384 2833

    • No credit cards

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