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From the corporate vanities
of Central district’s glass towers, through the vodka bars and
galleries of SoHo, and spilling down flagstone lanes to the raucous
shophouses and old docksides of Western, the Island’s northwest potently
concentrates all of Hong Kong’s surreal contradictions. In the concrete
gullies between futuristic banks and statement office blocks you’ll
find traditional street markets, temples and herbalists, all carrying on
like some Hollywood dream of old Chinatown. These are some of the most
mercantile streets in human history. A shot of snake bile wine, or a
fierce macchiato? In this part of the city, you can have it all.
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In the 19th century, Hong
Kong, like many other parts of the world in history, suffered
devastating plagues incubated in filthy, crowded slums. It was also in
Hong Kong where, in 1894, the source of the plague was identified,
almost simultaneously, by two doctors. The discovery of the bacteria
went on to revolutionize prevention and treatment of plague.
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Central district and harbour
Sights in the NorthwestHong Kong Park When
you’re tired of Central’s relentless bustle, Hong Kong Park’s open
spaces and mature trees make an excellent escape, particularly its
strikingly elegant (and free) walk-through aviary. The flowing streams
and lush plant life of this improbable mini-rainforest are a peaceful
and shaded home to scores of exotic bird species. The park also has
lakes, a large conservatory, a viewing tower and the free Museum of
Teaware, which is located inside Flagstaff House.
Red lory, Hong Kong Park
Aviary, Hong Kong Park
Exchange Square and Two IFC Tower As
the name suggests, Exchange Square houses Hong Kong’s red-carpeted
financial engine room, although the stock exchange is not open to
visitors. However, the peaceful square outside it, dominated by a large
fountain, is a great place to eat or drink outside. Near the fountain
are sculptures by Henry Moore and Dame Elizabeth Frink. The square’s
newest building, Two IFC Tower, is a striking addition to the island’s already impressive skyline.
Frink sculpture, Exchange Square
Former Government House This
grand old building served as the British governor’s residence from 1855
until 1997, when the last governor, Chris Patten, handed Hong Kong back
to China. Patten’s successor, Tung Chee-hwa, cited bad feng shui
created by the needle-like Bank of China
building as one reason not to move in, opting to remain in his house on
the Peak. Back in the 1940s, the occupying Japanese added the
Shinto-style towers to the Georgian structure, which at one time enjoyed
harbour views. The building is used for official functions, only
opening occasionally to the public – contact HKTB for details. The Escalator A
wonderful feature of Hong Kong is its 792-m (2,598-ft) long string of
escalators, which links all the roads between Queen’s Road and Conduit
Street. It’s the best way for pedestrians to get around the steep
districts of Central, the Mid-Levels and SoHo. The Escalator runs uphill
until midnight, except during the morning rush hour, when it runs
downhill.
One of the escalators
SoHo In
the last few years SoHo (so-called for being the area south of
Hollywood Road) has been transformed from a sleepy district of
traditional Chinese shops into a thriving area for hip bars, cafés and
restaurants. Elgin, Shelley and Staunton streets are excellent places to
find a drink or bite to eat.
Restaurant, SoHo
Sheung Wan and Western The
older, more traditional Chinese areas of town, just west of Central’s
sleek corporate head-quarters and the smart shops, are worth exploring
by foot. The reward is a fascinating array of shops, mostly wholesalers,
selling dried seafood (the pervading smell here), ginseng, edible
swallows’ nests, snakes, arcane herbal ingredients and paper offerings
for the dead. Try the streets around Bonham Strand. Lan Kwai Fong Not
much to look at during the day, Lan Kwai Fong (or Orchid Square) only
really starts to buzz at night when office workers, including plenty of
city suits, come here to unwind at its many bars, clubs and restaurants.
The street is packed with revellers on Fridays. The partying spills
across to tiny Wing Wah Lane just across D’Aguilar Street with bars and
good-value Thai, Malay and Indian restaurants. The Waterfront Turn
right out of the Central Star Ferry for some (admittedly meagre and
poorly exploited) open waterside space and benches with good views
across to Kowloon. Behind is Jardine House, for many years Asia’s
tallest building. To the east is the giant upturned gin bottle shape of
the Prince of Wales HQ building, which is now army barracks. The
waterfront hosts the “Symphony of Lights” laser and sound show every
evening at 8pm.
Central district
Man Mo Temple The
gloomy red and gold interior of the Man Mo Temple, dating back to the
1840s, is always thick with sandalwood smoke from the giant incense
spirals hanging overhead, which take a couple of weeks to burn through.
The temple is dedicated to two deities, Man (the god of literature) and
Mo (the god of war). Some of the scenes from the film version of Richard
Mason’s The World of Suzy Wong were filmed here.
Man Mo Temple
Man Mo Temple
Hollywood Road This
Mecca for Chinese antiques and curios may no longer offer the bargains
it once did but Hollywood Road’s eastern end is still jammed with shops
selling ancient ceramics, mammoth ivory carvings and delicate snuff
bottles. The stalls and shops on Upper Lascar Row are a good hunting
ground for antiques, trinkets, old coins, kitsch and curios. Haggling is
definitely acceptable here.
Antiques, Hollywood Road
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