A Day in Les Halles
Morning
Tackle the
Centre Georges Pompidou
early, as the expansive modern
art museum is worth a leisurely visit, and some of the excellent
temporary exhibits may catch your eye. If you need refreshment after all
that art, it has to be Georges, the chic brasserie at the top of the centre with good views and a choice of drinks, snacks or main meals.
On leaving the centre turn right into the Quartier de l’Horloge to catch the noon battle of the Défenseur du Temps clock.
Providing you have booked ahead, lunch at the 1912 bistro
Benoit
, whose lunchtime menu is far cheaper than in the evening.
After lunch visit the Eglise St-Merry.
Afternoon
Pass the Fontaine des Innocents as you head for Les Halles, but first go into the church of
St-Eustache
which was the place of worship of
the market workers at the old Les Halles. You could then spend the rest
of the afternoon shopping at the vast, if somewhat unprepossessing
Forum des Halles
.
Stop for a drink at A La Tour de Montlhéry, more commonly known as
Chez Denise
. It’s packed at mealtimes, but by
late afternoon you might be lucky enough to get a seat and be ready to
try their famous Gâteau Marguerite with strawberries and cream.
Memories of Les Halles
Le Cochon à l’Oreille
Dating
back to the early 20th century, this ornate working men’s café/bar
decorated with murals is where you’ll see market traders from rue de
l’Orgueil sipping their dawn drinks.
Le Cochon à l’Oreille
Au Pied de Cochon
This
24-hour brasserie still serves dishes which used to appeal to the
earthy tastes of market workers, including pigs’ trotters (see Au Pied de Cochon).
St-Eustache Sculpture
The
naive sculpture by Raymond Mason in the church’s Chapelle St-Joseph is a
tribute to the beloved market. Its colourful figures depict The Departure of Fruit and Vegetables from the Heart of Paris, 28 February 1969.
Sculpture outside St-Eustache church
Rue Montorgueil
The
colourful market (Tuesday to Sunday) along this cobbled street is a
reminder of the old Les Halles and is frequented by many Paris chefs.
Stöhrer
One of the loveliest old-fashioned patisseries in the city, founded in 1730 by a pastry chef who had worked for Louis XV.
Bistrot d’Eustache
A
visit here is like stepping back into the jazz spots of Paris in the
1930–40s. It offers good, reasonably priced brasserie fare and live jazz
on Friday and Saturday.
La Fresque
This wonderful restaurant used to be a fishmongers. An original tiled fishing scene still decorates the back room.
Dehillerin
Since 1820, everyone from army cooks to gourmet chefs has come here for copper pots, cast-iron pans and cooking utensils.
Duthilleul et Minart
For
more than 100 years this shop has sold French work clothes and uniforms
such as chef’s hats and watchmaker’s smocks. Good for unique gifts.
A La Cloche des Halles
This
wine bar literally rings with history. The “cloche” is the bronze bell
whose peal once signalled the beginning and end of the market day (see La Cloche des Halles).
