Giolitti
This 19th-century landmark café is widely regarded as serving Rome’s best ice cream .
Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40
Caffé Sant’Eustachio
Another best – this time the best cappuccino. Not surprisingly, the recipe is a closely guarded secret .
Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82
Trinity College
Ever-popular pub off the Corso, with tasty food served upstairs and standard bar downstairs. Outdoor seating .
Via del Collegio Romano 6
Black Duke
A passably genuine Irish pub in a cosy basement, with pub food and, in summer, outdoor seating.
Via della Maddalena 29B
Gelateria della Palma
A wide selection of ice cream flavours, just off the Pantheon’s square, and open late .
Via della Maddalena 20–23
La Tazza d’Oro
Rome’s “House of Coffee” since 1946. This is a die-hard locals’ joint, serving what devotees swear is Rome’s best coffee .
Via degli Orfani 84
Enoteca al Parlamento
Atmospheric and stylish wine bar frequented by politicos from the nearby Italian parliament buildings.
Via dei Prefetti 15
Capranica
This wine bar-cum-restaurant is just the place for a quick aperitivo or a more leisurely alfresco lunch. The impressively bottle-lined interior shows that this is a serious wine bar with a well-stocked cellar offering a great choice of labels.
Piazza Capranica 99
Cremeria Monteforte
A prime tourist position (next to the Pantheon) doesn’t always sound the death knell. This joint guarded by a wooden Pinocchio doorman serves the best fragola (strawberry) ice cream in town and interesting variations such as orange chocolate.
Via della Rotonda 22
Pascucci
This is the place with the frothiest milk shakes and smoothies in town. They come in all flavours and in any combination.
Via di Torre Argentina 20
L’Eau Vive
Amid 16th-century frescoes, lay sisters from around the world dressed in native costume serve refined French cuisine and dishes from their own countries. Everyone sings “Ave Maria of Lourdes” before their crêpes flambées. Perhaps a little kitsch but all the profits do go to charity.
Via Monterone 85
06 6880 1095
Closed Sun
Il Bacaro
Booking is essential at this tiny osteria. Although the design is contemporary inside, it feels like old Rome when sitting at an outdoor table against the ivy-covered walls. The cuisine is traditional dishes from across Italy.
Via degli Spagnoli 27
06 687 2554
Osteria dell’Ingegno
This popular modern wine bar also serves huge meat and cheese platters.
Piazza di Pietra 45
06 678 0662
Trattoria Enoteca Corsi
This wine shop has grown into a thriving restaurant (lunch only) serving delicious traditional cuisine at affordable prices. Check the blackboard for the daily specials.
Via del Gèsu 87
06 679 0821
Maccheroni
The fans and airy rooms wrapped around an open kitchen have a Parisian bistro look. The menu is staunchly Roman though.
Piazza delle Coppelle 44
06 6830 7895
Ristorante Boccondivino
Classy, modern restaurant with a contemporary art collection and outdoor seating.
Piazza in Campo Marzio 6
06 6830 8626
Closed Sat L, Sun
Ristorante Trattoria
The Sicilian-inspired dishes are light and pleasing at this eatery.
Via del Pozzo delle Cornacchie 25
06 6830 1427
Closed Sun in Aug
Settimo all’Arancio
Hectic, but excellent classic Roman cuisine.
Via del Arancio 50–52
06 687 6119
Closed Sun (Jul–Aug)
Da Gino
Visit these trompe-l’oeil vaults for food like nonna (grandma) used to make.
Vicolo Rosini 4
06 687 3434
Il Delfino
Self-service Roman dishes at good prices and friendly staff.
Corso Vittorio Emmanuele 67
06 686 4053