travel

Ivan’s Stress- Free Bar, Jost Van Dyke

Description: Ivan’s Stress- Free Bar

Ivan’s Stress- Free Bar

Imagine a front- porch hootenanny on a slice of sand: that is happy hour at Ivan’s. Run by seventh- generation Jost Van Dyte resident Ivan Chinnery; this beachfront empire consists of an open- air shack, a few cabins and some tents. What it lacks in vreature comforts, it makes up for in conviviality: if you are lucky, you may find guitarist Ivan playing along with visiting talent- say, Keith Richards. Sample the house rum punch (it includes guava) and the  shrimp sauteed in lemon- garlic butter. And if the festivities run too  late for you to take a water taxi back to your boat, there’s always a tent, a cabin or a hamock to curl up in. 00 1 284 495 9358; mains from US$18

Pirates Bight, Norman Island

Description: Pirates Bight, Norman Island

Pirates Bight, Norman Island

In the 1700s, the crew of a Spanish galleon buried 55 chest of silver here (and it is said that some of the treasure remains). A century later, the island inpired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. People are still coming, but these days it is for the Bushwacker laced with alcohol). Occupying a stretch of shoreline on a uninhabited, 610- acre private island, Pirates Bight attracts quets from 100- plus boát moored ofshore (yachties radio in on Channel 16 to book a table), then serenades them with live bands on Friday and Sunday. For extra credit, hike the trail up Spyglass Hill for a view taking in the sweep of the British Virgin Islands. 00 1 284 496 7827; mains from US$20

The william Thornton Floating Bar & Restaurant, Norman Island

Description: The william Thornton Floating Bar & Restaurant

The william Thornton Floating Bar & Restaurant

Anchored 200ft offshore (accessible by dinghy or your own flailing arms), the ‘Willy- T’ is an anything- goes sort of bar, with multiple decks for eating and drinking, and on any given day a pod of leatherback turtles might drift by pr a naked crew member from a passing sloop climb aboard. Order classic Caribbean fare to soak up the classic Caribbean drinks. 00 1 284 496 8603; mains from US$9

Bohio Bar, Puerto Rico

Description: Bohio Bar, Puerto Rico

The Bohio sits between the rooms and the pool at Rincon’s Villa Cfresi hotel. This is convenient for guest who put away a few tpp many Pirate Specials, a delightfully kitsch (they are served in coconuts) homage to Roberto Cofresi, a pirate rumoured to have hidden treasure in local caves. Pinchos are the big draw on the menu: this Puerto Rican street- food standard is essentially a plate of grilled, marinated chiken or shrimp on a shewer, with hunks of bread. 00 1 787 823 2450; mains from US$5

Calypso café, Puerto Rico

Description: Calypso café

Calypso café

Rincon- and specifically Maria’s Beach, which has long been home to the Calypso Café- is known as the Caribbean Pipeline for its unparalleled waves. In fact, a lunch pit- stop might coincide with a surfing competition (in winter, swells can reach 25ft) or breaching humplack whales (from January ro March). The food- from grilled tuna teriyaki to carb- loaded rice- and- bean burrito- does not vie for attention with the green flash at sunset, a spectcular natural phenomenon that surfers, locals and tourists alike huddle at the bar to see. The wait is made easier by a medley of strong punches and frozen cockyails. 00 1 787 823 1626; mains from US$9

La Parrilla, Puerto Rico

Description: La Parrilla, Puerto Rico

From outside, there is nothing to distinguish  this humble cinder- block establishment from its similarly clad neighbours along the beach in the north- eastern town of Luquillo. But inside, the friendly proprietor, Ricardo Alvaro, delivers some of the island’s most inventive cuisine. Red snapper is stuffed with seafood paella  and then steamed in butter,  coriander and lime; pineapple is diced, grilled and served with shrimp, rice and a seasoning of curry powder and Pina Colada mix, an improbable combination that is sweet, spicy and salty all at once. 00 1 787 347 3865; mains from US$8

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