A Morning Walk Around Old Madrid
Begin the morning at
Plaza de la Villa
with its handsome 16th- and 17th-century palaces. Take the busy Calle Mayor as far as Calle de Felipe III, then turn into
Plaza Mayor
. Cross this magnificent square
diagonally, leaving by the ancient Calle Toledo, once the main exit
south from the city. On the way look out for the Hernanz rope store and other reminders that this was once an artisans’ quarter. Looming on the left is the Baroque
Colegiata de San Isidro
. Continue to La Latina metro.
Turn and follow Plaza de
la Cebada, past the modern covered market. Turn right into Plaza del
Humilladero and cross this square to the adjoining Plaza de San Andrés
and its huge domed church. Straight ahead is a 16th-century palace, now
the
Museo de los Origenes Casa de San Isidro
. Follow the path round the back of the church into Costanilla de San Andrés, a narrow street which opens onto the historic Plaza de la Paja,
a good area for bars and restaurants. On the corner of Calle de Alfonso
VI is the Colegio de San IIdefonso whose students chant the results of
the Christmas National Lottery in a distinctive singsong.
By now you’ll probably be ready for a well earned lunch. Vegetarians will be tempted by El Estragón (Costanilla de San Andrés 10); another good choice is the Taberna Bilbao next door (No.8).
Best of the Rest
Ateneo de Madrid One
of Madrid’s great cultural institutions, the Ateneo was founded in 1835
to promote the arts and sciences. The building contains a library of
half a million volumes. Colegiata de San Isidro This
imposing church was built in 1622 by the Jesuits. In 1768 the remains
of Madrid’s patron saint, San Isidro, were interred here. Calle de Toledo 37–9 Open for services Free
Palacio de Santa Cruz This
17th-century palace has lovely spired towers and interior courtyards.
It was originally used as the city prison, but now houses the Ministry
of Foreign Affairs. Teatro Español Spain’s
National Theatre began as an open courtyard with a wooden platform for a
stage. Above the entrance of today’s Neo-Classical building are
medallions depicting the country’s best known dramatists.
Teatro Español
Teatro de la Comedia The
Comedy Theatre stages classical plays, despite its name. The lovely
façade dates from 1874; the auditorium was restored in the 1990s. Calle de las Huertas The name refers to the orchards that flourished here in the 17th century. Today the street is better known for its nightlife. Muralla Arabe Remains of the medieval defences are best seen from Parque Emir Mohammad I. The original section is 9th-century.
Muralla Arabe
Cervecería Alemana This popular beer and tapas bar was founded in 1904 and is still going strong . Plaza de Sta Ana 6 Closed Tue, Aug
Plaza de Tirso de Molina Laid out in the 1840s, this square commemorates the creator of the infamous seducer, Don Juan. Cine Doré The cinematograph was introduced to a Madrid audience from a booth on the site of what is now, fittingly, the cinema house Cine Doré. Calle de Sta Isabel 3 Closed Mon
Specialist Shops
Casa Hernanz One
of a number of intriguing shops on Calle de Toledo, Casa Hernanz
specializes in rope, with items such as espadrilles, baskets, mats and
light shades.
Casa Hernanz
Tea Shop You
will find an exquisite selection of teas from around the world in this
delightful shop. Be sure to try the aromatic and exotic infusions such
as “Andalusian Garden” or “La Siesta”. Santería la Milagrosa Fascinating
emporium near Sol, dealing in things spiritual – everything from
amulets and birth charts to tarot cards, books on white magic and icons. Biocentro Health
food shop with a good selection of natural products, mainly food
(including vacuum packed 100 per cent vegeburgers) and cosmetics. Casa Mira Founded in 1842 by Luis Mira, who knew how to cater for the famous Spanish sweet tooth, this confitería (confectioner) is best known for its turrón (Christmas nougat); also marzipan, chocolate and pestiños (honey coated pastries). La Violeta This quaint store, founded more than a century ago, sells its own brand of sugared violets, plus a small range of marrons glacés, pralines and other sweets. Hermanos Ortíz Sanza Just
off Plaza Mayor, this philatelist’s dream deals in stamps, albums,
catalogues, commemorative issues and magnifying glasses; also medals,
coins and old banknotes. Yo-Fútbol As
the name suggests, this outlet caters for the soccer fan, with a strong
bias towards local favourites, Real Madrid. Sells scarves, balls,
calendars, clocks and other promotional items. Fábrica de Churros You’ve seen them in every café but maybe the name escapes you. Churros are the doughnuts madrileños eat for breakfast, often dipping them in a cup of thick hot chocolate. Seseña Would-be
matadors should first make their way here to be kitted out with the
traditional Spanish cape. Be warned, however that they don’t come cheap.
Seseña
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