African beats on the mediterranean
There are many beach destinations in the
world but very few with the gastronomic buzz you will find in Marbella. Perhaps
it is the Costa de Sol’s generations-old ‘chiringuito’ culture; the Malaguenos
know all about creating a very particular atmosphere by the sea, seducing
diners with their casual vibe, fresh seaside fare and cosy sunbeds. Within this
group of beachside haves, Trocadero Arena has broken new ground. It has kept up
the welcoming comfort factor but raised the bar of sophistication, turning to a
rather unexpected source of inspiration for its interiors: Africa and its
exotic natural and wildlife.
The
indoor Lounge
The restaurant is divided into two main
areas: the Beach Club and the indoor Lounge. From the al fresco Beach Club
terrace, diners look out onto the sea and three rows of exotic parasols, made
of different materials (thatched roofing, white sail shades and exotic ‘frou
frou’ style grass parasols dancing in the wind) provide welcoming shade to the
cosy hammocks located a few steps away from the sea.
The interiors are a whole other world… one
seems transported to the Africa of Conrad or Coetzee, where dark wood, leopard
and zebra prints, swaying palms and wooden ceiling fans, impart a distinctly
British colonial feel… At the cocktail bar, you will find the barman juggling
cocktail shakers, Tom Cruise style, to creative colourful, heady highballs
which crush the stress monster with just one sip. The main bar, with a stunning
portrait of a leopard and an inviting mixed thatched/wooden beamed roof, is an
ideal spot to meet and greet. Here and there, you are surprised by unexpected
touches like cosy fireplaces, colourful carpets and even a life-sized statue of
Humphrey Bogart standing by a baby grand piano. But let’s not forget about the
food, for the Trodero name has always been associated with serving seasonal
cuisine which is no less than exquisite. The menu contains delicacies such as
Almadrabe red tune, which is caught only in the months of April May and June,
while the fish are migrating from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. The fish
is frozen at -600C, to ensure quality remains intact.
The
Beach Club
There are two Chefs heading the kitchens:
Juan Antonio Carmona (who honed his craft with Calima’s Dani García) at
day-time and Miguel de Palma in the evenings; the menu is the same but
presentation and ambience vary. The choice of dishes is wide enough to please
all palates; diners will find everything from Iberian hams to Cantabrian anchovy,
cheeses, sushi, salads, rice, pasta and wok dishes, fish and seafood, juicy
steaks and much more.
Russian
salad
My dining companion and I began with a
fitting summer starter: a Russian salad given an original twist with crab meat,
topped with flirtatious spoonfuls of caviar. We then tried a mixed plate of
sushi with delectable varieties including octopus, red tuna and prawns, washed
down with a chilled glass of Rueda. Budding sommeliers will be impressed by the
wine list, which boast excellent varieties from Spain, Italy and France, as
well as New World Wines including the exquisite Cloudy Bay Sauvignon from New
Zealand.
A
delicious chicken wok
For our main course, we tried a delicious
chicken wok (generously sized and bearing an irresistibly sweet Oriental
flavour) and a grilled Almadraba red tuna, juicy and almost meaty in slavour,
served with a delightful Greek yoghurt and mint sauce. The dish was, in a word,
outstanding; a must any self-respecting fish fanatic.
A
grilled Almadraba red tuna
The dessert was also a knockout, revealing
the chefs’ unique talent for marrying flavours and textures. Warm and cool;
sweet, tangy, bitter and salty found their way to a dish that serves up a
chocolate volcano in a way probably have never experienced: surrounded by
vibrant red crushed salty crackers, vivid green matcha (Japanese green tea
powder), a scoop of vanilla ice-cream topped with a rich mango sauce, and
strawberries and cream. Not being a sweet tooth, I don’t often wax lyrical at
dessert time but this temptation is capable of steering even the staunchest
dieter away from the path of righteousness… it was a fitting end to a meal that
can only be described as perfect from start to finish, in terms of quality,
flavour, ambience and service.
