The site of the old airport,
Kai Tak has not been allowed to lie fallow, with the former terminal
converted into the world’s largest golf driving range. In the
neighbouring streets are excellent budget dining and seconds outlets,
for this is where locals go bargain-hunting. Culture is found to the
north, in the Tang Dynasty-style architecture of the Chi Lin Nunnery or
the joyful chaos of Wong Tai Sin Temple.
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More than 50,000 poor souls once inhabited the Kowloon Walled City,
a place of few laws and no taxes, but plenty of diseases and desperate
criminals. In the 1950s the triads moved in, and the narrow lanes often
ran red with blood. Before 1992 it was also one of the few places left
in Hong Kong to find grizzled opium addicts puffing away in divans.
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Sights in New KowloonWong Tai Sin Temple A
noisy, colourful affair, Wong Tai Sin is always crowded and aswirl with
incense smoke. Legend holds that Wong Tai Sin (originally known as
Huang Chu-ping), who was born in Zhejiang Province around AD 328, could
see the future and make wishes come true. The temple opened in 1921,
after a Taoist priest brought a sacred portrait of Huang to Hong Kong.
Its vivid, stylised architecture contrasts sharply with the surrounding
concrete boxes. Worshippers from the three main Chinese religions –
Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism – flock here, not to mention 100-odd
soothsayers hawking their services. Find out for yourself if they are as
accurate as Huang. Behind the temple is an ancient and mysterious tomb
that still baffles historians.
Temple prayer sticks and incense
Lion Rock One
of the best places to view this fascinating natural landmark is,
conveniently, from outside Wong Tai Sin temple. Find the open area near
the fortune tellers’ stalls where you can look straight up at what from
this angle resembles the grizzled head of a male lion. Those feeling
energetic may be tempted to scale its heights. Take lots of water, and
be warned – the top section is not for the faint-hearted.
Lion Rock
Kowloon Walled City Park One
of Hong Kong’s most picturesque parks began life in 1847 as a Chinese
fort. A legal oversight by the British left the fort under Chinese
control after the New Territories were leased to Britain. It was
levelled during World War II, and a labyrinthine ghetto called the
Walled City sprang up in its place. This bizarre place quickly became a
magnet for triads, drug dealers, heroin addicts, pornographers and rats
the size of small dogs (see The Grimmest Conditions on the Planet).
It was pulled down in 1992 and replaced by the park. A display of
photographs in the almshouse near the entrance tells the story.
Kowloon Walled City Park
Maze, Kowloon Walled City Park
Oriental Golf City This
is, reputedly, the world’s biggest driving range, with more than 200
bays. Whack away to your heart’s content – unless you’re well-connected
or seriously rich, this is as close as you’ll get to a golf course in
Hong Kong. Chi Lin Nunnery It
is said that not a single nail was used in the construction of this
lavish replica of a Tang Dynasty (AD 618–907) place of worship. The
nunnery opened in 2000, funded by donations from wealthy families, whose
names are inscribed under the roof tiles. On the mainland, few original
structures survived the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s, so this is a
rare chance to see the ingenuity of ancient Middle Kingdom architecture.
There are also impressive statues of the Sakyamuni Buddha, ornate
gardens and gently whispering waterfalls, and the underlying hum of the
chanting, shaven-headed nuns.
Chi Lin Nunnery
Chi Lin Nunnery complex
Lei Yue Mun Once
a fishing village, Lei Yue Mun translates as “carp gate”, although the
only fish you’re likely to see now are in the excellent seafood
restaurants lining the waterfront. This is the closest point between
Hong Kong Island and Kowloon but don’t be tempted to swim across – if
the pollution doesn’t kill you, you’ll be whisked away by the strong
currents.
Lei Yue Mun fish market
Fat Jong Temple Although
it is one of the most famous Buddhist sites in Hong Kong, the Fat Jong
Temple is little visited by foreigners. Making it well worth the journey
to see is the striking colour scheme – with red pillars standing out
from the white walls – ornate decorations and magnificent Buddha
sculptures. The temple somehow manages to be both busy and serene at the
same time. Lei Chung Uk Tomb The
Han burial tomb (AD 24– 220) can barely be seen through a scratched
sheet of perspex. Still, it’s one of Hong Kong’s earliest surviving
historical monuments, so act impressed. 41 Tonkin St, Sham Shui Po 10am–1pm, 2pm–6pm. Closed Mon Free
Hau Wong Temple Quaint
and tiny, Hau Wong is hardly worth a special trip, but take a look if
you’re in the area. It was built in 1737 as a monument to the exiled
boy-emperor Ping’s most loyal advisor. Usually fairly quiet unless a
festival is in full swing. Apliu Street This
huge street market is full of all sorts of strange junk and pirated
goods. You’ll feel you’re on another planet here – this is as “local” as
Hong Kong gets. It includes perhaps the world’s biggest collection of
secondhand electrical stuff. Occasionally you can spot the odd retro
turntable or radio, but most of it is rubbish.
Apliu Street
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