Enoteca Antica
Delicious antipasti and wine by the glass, are served in this old-fashioned lively establishment.
Via della Croce 76b
Gilda
Rome’s most central disco has remained popular for years, with a pizzeria in the evening and dance music cranking up at midnight. High cover charge on weekends, but always an A-list crowd.
Via Mario de’ Fiori 97
Antico Caffè Greco
Rome’s premier literary café since 1760, best known for its popularity with the 19th-century English Romantic poets .
Via Condotti 86
Thé Verde
Owned by a family of tea traders since 1890, this tranquil, Oriental-style tea-house stocks over two hundred types of tea. Home-made cakes and light meals are also available.
Via Bocca Leone 46
Cinecafé Casina delle Rose
Located in the grounds of Villa Borghese, this café serves drinks and light lunches including salads, sandwiches and some seafood.
Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1
Ciampini al Café du Jardin
Enjoy a drink while watching the sunset at this enchanting café.
Viale Trinità dei Monti
06 678 5678
Closed Nov–Mar
Caffé Rosati
Art Nouveau rival to the right-wing Canova across the piazza, this café has long been the haunt of left-wing intellectuals .
Piazza del Popolo 4–5
Caffè Canova
The right-wing bastion in the long-standing Piazza del Popolo café war, with cheaper espresso, better ice cream and a restaurant upstairs (the Rosati is more stylish though).
Piazza del Popolo 16–17
Shaki
Post-Modern wine bar serving salads and sandwiches with a few tables outside. They also have a very good speciality foods store at Piazza di Spagna 65.
Via Mario de’ Fiori 29A
Babington’s Tea Rooms
Good for a very pricey spot of tea and other daintily British edibles. Opened in 1893 by a Derbyshire lady, it was the ex-pat hub of the later Grand Tour era.
Piazza di Spagna 23
Fiaschetteria Beltramme (da Cesaretto)
Regulars and tourists are fitted around communal tables at this ultra-traditional trattoria just down the block from the Spanish Steps.
Via della Croce 39
Closed Sun
No credit cards
Edy
Some of the best food and lowest prices in this high-rent neighbourhood. Mix of seafood and Roman dishes. The candlelit tables out front are a nice touch.
Vicolo del Babuino 4
06 3600 1738
Closed Sun, Mon L
‘Gusto
Trendiest thing going: combo restaurant, pizzeria and Thai wine bar .
Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9
06 322 6273
Birreria Peroni
Beer hall with excellent, cheap food sponsored by Italy’s premier brewery – try their “Blue Ribbon” Nastro Azzurro label .
Via San Marcello 19/Piazza SS Apostoli
06 679 5310
Dal Bolognese
This restaurant’s popularity rollercoaster is currently on the upswing, with international celebrities again gracing its tables on Piazza del Popolo for classic Roman cuisine in view of the Ferraris parked out front.
Piazza del Popolo 1
06 361 1426
Closed Mon
Abruzzi
The cuisine here hails from the owners’ home in the nearby Abruzzi mountains, as the name suggests.
Via del Vaccaro 1
06 679 3897
Closed Sat
Hosteria St Ana
Warren of basement rooms plastered with photos of famous patrons. Classic Roman cookery.
Via della Penna 68–9
06 361 0291
Closed Sat L, Sun
Al 34
Excellently priced menus featuring inventive Italian cooking.
Via Mario de’ Fiori 34
06 679 5091
Il Brillo Parlante
Popular basement eatery packed with locals enjoying huge plates of salad and delicious pizzas.
Via della Fontanella 12
06 324 3334
Closed Mon L
L’Archetto
The cast from nearby Teatro Quirino head here for more than 100 pasta sauces.
Via dell’Archetto 26
06 678 9064