Food is most
definitely a passion of mine, through my terrible indecisiveness means I often
spend ages poring over mouthwatering menus, leaving my dining partner decidedly
bored – not to mention hungry. I’m the same with shopping; I always find the
dress of my dreams in the first shop but have to visit a further 20 boutiques
just to be sure I’ve exhausted all options. So when I heard that my lovely
local pub The Black Horse in Dry Drayton was introducing a six-course tasting menu,
with a ‘let the chef surprise you’ element, I knew it would be perfect. Also,
knowing the Brazilian chef Marcello Silveira would be conjuring up the dishes,
I was sure they’d be positive works of art. Marcello’s chef CV includes stints
at the Michelin-starred Midsummer House and The Three Horseshoes at Abbots
Ripton, and he describes his food as ‘local cuisine with a modern twist’.
Arriving on a chilly
night, we were warmly welcomed with a hug from the owners Gary and Denise
Glover, who have become much-loved in the village, treating their loyal
regulars almost as an extension of their own family. Sparkling and still water
had been thoughtfully provided on our table as perfect palate cleansers. The
tasting began with Hand Dived King Scallops and Confit of Somersham Pork Belly,
served with a glass of French chardonnay, which balanced well with the dish
without overpowering the flavours. The pork belly was gloriously crispy on top
and the scallops seared to perfection, served with a sweet purée and topped
with tasty pea shoots.
Next came Wild
Mushrooms with Truffle and Micro Herbs, which was rich and decadent, served on
toasted ciabatta with a chilled glass of Chenin. The mushrooms, which included
Chanterelle, Oyster, Cep, Trompettes and Chestnut varieties, were dark and glossy,
drizzled with balsamic and the richness lifted by mixed leaves that had a zingy
mustardy dressing.
The fish course of
Aldeburgh Stone Bass was a talking point as chef has paired this with a red
wine – a French Mont Rocher 2010. Having it drilled into me that reds
complement game and red meat, while whites go with fish and poultry, it seemed
an odd pairing. But as the fish was served with mussels and kidney beans in a
rich jus that had a little chilli heat to it, the smooth flavour of the red did
work. The main was a new one for me – Muntjac – served with potato, spinach,
quirky courgette balls and a delicious purée that tasted of vanilla and
parsnip, plus a Cabernet Sauvignon. The meat was so pink and tender it melted
in the mouth.
Our taster menu
finalé came in the shape of a creamy Chocolate Mousse served in tall glass with
coconut sprinkles, which silenced both of us it was so scrumptious, then the
obligatory cheeseboard with a glass of port. The generous fromage serving
included the delightfully pongy Stinking Bishop, a brie-style Norfolk White
Lady and my favourite, the semi-hard Cornish Yarg. As we drained our port
glasses ready to leave, we realised we’d been dining for three hours, yet the
time had flown, so it had been a fabulous foodie evening.
