The
Paraben Debate
While parabens
are controversial for their potential cancer-causing properties, Faucitt argues
they are still safe, effective and one of the most used preservatives in the world.
They are used in baby foods and breast cancer treatments, and only a minimal
amount is required to provide full broad-spectrum cover - from 0,1% to 0,3%.
Faucitt adds that research shows it would take 72 000 layers of products containing
parabens applied one on top of the other to cause any oestrogenic effect - however,
further research is needed to find a definitive answer to this.
Dr Sly Nedic,
aesthetic practitioner and owner of 8th Sense, explains that parabens are so
widely used because they are cheap, effective and can be rapidly expelled by the
body. Several studies have shown that parabens can bind to oestrogen receptors
and act as exogenous oestrogen, adding to the total body oestrogen burden. She mentions
that parabens have been found in a breast tissue, but scientists are still wary
to admit that it causes breast cancer, because recent data suggests that
parabens, such as xenoestrogens, are detoxified by the same metabolic pathways in
the liver as the body's own oestrogen. There are two mechanisms involved: one is
when parabens are competing with our own body oestrogen, not allowing it to
reduce more dangerous metabolites like 16-0 H oestrogen and 4-0 H oestrogen
(proven to be carcinogenic). The second mechanism is related to the accumulation
of the parabens metabolites, which then have high oestrogen receptor affinity. Nedic
adds that, to complicate the problem further, there is a great variation of genes
involved in this detoxification process and, unless genetic testing is done, you
will not know how dangerous parabens are in your own body compared to someone
else's.
Many other
toxic substances, like pesticides, interfere with the same detoxification as parabens
and oestrogens, and you can imagine that a person who overloads their system with
these substances, and who have reactive genetic make-up, will have a greater predisposition
of getting cancer. Nedic says it is possible to identify this predisposition through
genetic testing; you are then able to consciously switch from the products that
contain parabens to ones that contain natural preservatives. However, this is costly,
and not widely available. If you are concerned, rather avoid products
containing parabens.
“If
you believe in making difference to the environment by using organic products,
then by all means do so”
Organic vs Synthetic Products
Organic
products are not expensive, synthetic products cost the world
Dermatologist
Marianne Duvenhage says that, "if you believe in making a difference to the
environment by using organic products, then by all means do so." However,
she mentions that using organic or natural products does not necessarily protect
you from skin problems as these may even cause allergic reactions. Peppermint, bergamot
and rosemary are all highly allergenic and can irritate sensitive skin. She adds
that chamomile can also induce an allergic reaction, despite the fact that is usually
regarded as a gentle and soothing herb.
Duvenhage says:
"No matter how virtuous the use of an organic product makes you feel, identifying
your skin type and then selecting a product must supersede your choice between a
natural or organic product." She explains that soy products are a case in point,
as they can increase pigmentation in someone who already has pigmented skin.
From the
skin's perspective, Duvenhage concludes that the "form and concentration is
surely more influential than whether the product is organic or not". Retinoids
are of great benefit to someone with an oily, wrinkle-prone skin, but they are not
organic - in fact, no organic products have the same efficacy as retinoids, she
adds. "The secret is to find the right blend of products for your skin type,"
she says. "Skincare practitioners are eagerly awaiting properly researched
organic products, so as to give our patients good advice."
POINT TO
NOTE: Organic is defined in the dictionary as "a compound that contains a
carbon atom", and because carbon is found in everything that has ever
lived, this is often used to sell the green angle. This is known in the trade
as "confusion advertising", as the reality of the product's natural
or organic status becomes blurred.
What
ingredients you should avoid?
The general
rule is if you can't say it, it's probably chemically synthesized and
therefore can be harmful, says Rowan, Anything with an essential oil base is
usually trustworthy - so look out for lavender, olive oil, chamomile, rose,
vanilla, propolis, calendula. All of these ingredients are, literally, safe
enough to eat.
Try to avoid
ingredients like sodium lauryl sulphate or sodium laureth sulphate (found in
many shampoos, liquid soaps and bubble bath) as these are foaming agents and
con strip your skin of natural oils. If water is added to the product, which
it almost always is, then a preservative of some sort needs to be added to
prevent bacteria from forming. The most commonly used preservative are parabens,
which can have hormone-altering effects.
Other general
ingredients to avoid: petrochemicals (mineral oil, paraffin), MEA, DEA, TEA, dioxane,
ureas, aluminiums, formaldehyde, alcohol, isopropyl (SD-40), cationic
surfactants, lauryl sarcosine, cocamidopropyl betaine, ammonium lauryl
sulfate (ALS), benzalkonium chloride, synthetic fragrances and ethoxylated
ingredients.
