While chemical peels offer you a nice bridge
between topical beauty products and aesthetic procedures, you should keep in mind
that there are many types of peels available. They are generally considered
successful in helping to reduce wrinkles, pigmentation or discoloration, scarring
or problems with skin texture. And the process involves little or no downtime. But
how do you know which one to choose for your skin type? Our experts give you the
information to help you make the right decision.
How It Works
"A peel may be time- or layer-dependent,
natural or chemical," explains somatologist Sonette Donker of Skin Id. "It
is the application of a chemical solution to induce a healing process in the
skin and it is used to improve and smooth the texture of the facial skin by
removing its damaged outer layers," adds Dr Kamlen Pillay, medical
director of the Wembley Medispa.
Peels work on each layer of skin, all the
way down to the basal layer where healthy new cells are generated. They accelerate
the cell removal process, rejuvenating your skin. By removing excessive dead
cells, you can help eliminate the layer of skin that enhances your wrinkles,
pigmentation, age spots and congested pores, and increase cell turnover for a
fresher and healthier-looking skin.
"Peeling promotes collagen and elastin
synthesis, thickening and re-elastisising your skin," says Donker. "It
also helps your natural acids attract more moisture into the skin, plumping out
wrinkles."
Concentration Is Key
Some peels contain stronger active ingredients
than others; these allow the skin to be treated on a deeper level by removing more
than one layer of skin. "Peels that have a higher concentration of natural
acid, such as 40% to 90%, offer more rapid results, but you need to build up your
skin's resistance before tackling such a strong peel," advises Donker.
Jacqui Faucitt, CEO of RegimA, explains that
light to medium chemical peels are more suitable for patients with finely
wrinkled faces, sun-damaged skin, acne, scars and uneven pigmentation. She says
it's not just the percentage of a peel that is important, but the pH level, too.
"Usually the solution should be at a pH of 2,5 or less."
Pillay adds: "In South Africa, superficial
peels may be performed by non-physicians. Medium and deep peels should be
administered by doctors only."
Types of Peels
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic
acid and lactic acid, are naturally occurring carboxylic acids. They are the mildest
of the peel formulas and produce light peels for the treatment of fine wrinkles,
areas of dryness, uneven pigmentation and acne.
Alpha hydroxy acids can also be mixed with a
facial wash or cream in lesser concentrations, as part of a daily skincare regimen,
to improve the skin's texture.
“Peeling helps your natural acids
attract more moisture into the skin, plumping out wrinkles”
Glycolic Acid is a fruit acid derived from sugar cane and prepared synthetically for
clinical use. "It comes in three strengths: 30%, 50% and 70%," explains
Faucitt. Glycolic acid is used for photo damage, fine lines or rough textures, and
to treat grade 1 or 2 acne. These peels are usually light, non-toxic, and have
few complications.
Lactic Acid occurs
naturally in sour milk. After penetrating the skin, lactic acid is converted automatically
to pyruvic acid. 'At identical concentrations, lactic acid destroys the epidermis
more slowly than glycolic acid, which could lead to less irritation on the
skin," says Faucitt.
She explains that concentrations of lactic acid
of 10% to 20% or stronger will stimulate skin regeneration and renew the
epidermis cells. At a concentration of 50% to 70%, lactic acid produces the same
amount of exfoliation as glycolic acid. Lactic acid also improves skin
hydration and suppleness.
Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) comes in the form of colorless or white crystals, and has a distinctive,
sharp, pungent odour. "It's a common peeling agent, which comes in a
variety of strengths, usually increasing in increments of 5%," says
Faucitt.
TCA is considered non-toxic, easy-to-use,
and has the ability to create a variety of results. It penetrates the papillary
dermis or the upper reticular dermis when a "full frost" is achieved.
The "frost" is the result of the chemical TCA coagulating the protein
in the skin. TCA provides a predictable medium-depth peel. It is versatile and
can be applied to all parts of the body. However, Donker points out that TCA peels
are not suitable for all skin types; if you have olive or darker skin, or brown
eyes, you should stay away from high percentages of this peel.
Jessner's Solution is a combination of three acids: 14% salicylic acid, 14% resorcinol
and 14% lactic acid in an ethanol base. "If treating acne, the percentage of
salicylic acid will be increased," says Faucitt. This solution is frequently
used in combination with other acids to improve the result. Jessner's can be combined
with glycolic acid to provide a deeper peel, but this is more risky, as the
glycolic acid needs to be neutralized.
Phenol Peel is
the deepest peel that can be performed. "It gives the most dramatic
results, but it is also the most dangerous," says Faucitt. Its indications
are limited to cases that cannot be treated with other peels. If an AHA or TCA
peel can be used, it will be used over a phenol peel without hesitation.
Points to Consider
Depending on the peel used, doctors may prescribe
results-driven, post-peel homecare products to maintain the results or
alleviate the peeling process.
"In some cases, petroleum jelly will be
prescribed, as it creates an impermeable layer on the surface of the skin and
prevents the water in the epidermis from evaporating," explains Faucitt. Water
accumulates under the layer of petroleum jelly and provides instant, natural hydration
that helps relieve the itching caused by the keratinocytes drying out.
Donker advises that when choosing a peel, you
should ask what ingredients the treatment contains. The safest peels contain not
only natural alpha hydroxy acids, but they should also contain healing, repairing
and anti-inflammatory ingredients.
Faucitt adds that while lighter skin tones can
tolerate any kind of peel, the darker your skin, the more risks you may
encounter. "It is recommended not to go beyond the papillary dermis with
darker-skinned patients, to avoid hyperpigmentation," she advises.
Post-Peel
Pre- and post-care
are extremely important to ensure safe, effective and lasting results. By
preparing your skin and aiding in the healing process, you can prevent
possible complications.
According to the
American Academy of Dermatologists, as the chemical peel removes the top
layer of your skin, it can create a slight burning sensation. The level of
pain is directly related to the intensity of the peel, and this sensation can
last anywhere from a few hours to a few days. The academy also cautions that
you can experience peeling akin to that following sunburn. Direct sunlight
should be avoided, as well as any excessive or needless touching of the face.
Remember that a
certain degree of redness will probably occur, as the chemicals used in this
process are abrasive and strong - they are effectively
"exfoliating" the top layer of your skin. The less intensive the
peel, the shorter the period of redness, and this can last from a few hours
to several days, depending on how strong, or intensive, your peel was.
"Correct
homecare is critical," urges Donker. "You must use a day product
with a sunscreen, particularly if you want to eliminate pigmentation or
sun-spots." At night, she advises using a product that contains natural
AHAs, to maintain the action of the peel. However, ensure that your day cream
does not contain AHA, as this may increase sun-sensitivity, which may in turn
cause pigmentation.
